Centigraphe Souverain, Salmon Dial, Pink Gold

Perhaps no other wristwatch better typifies François-Paul’s obsessive philosophy in watchmaking than the Centigraphe Souverain. Released first in 2007, it quickly won the GPHG Aiguille d’Or for its ability to time 1/100th of a second. The Centigraphe Souverain was officially discontinued in 2018, marking the end of one of the most unique chronographs ever devised. The entire architecture of calibre 1506 is different to all other chronographs before or since. It is an absurdly ambitious feat, and particularly beautiful in this pink on pink configuration.

FP Journe had devised the basic idea for the Centigraphe in the very early years of his brand, but was only convinced to bring to reality after a conversation with Jean Todt, then executive director of Scuderia Ferrari now head of FIA. Over several dinners, the pair imagined what the ultimate contemporary mechanical chronograph for motorsport of today could be. While the Octa Chronographe existed, François-Paul knew a more technically audacious solution was required: 1/100th of a second.

Calibre 1506 which resulted is like no other chronograph made. It nods to John Harrison, but then deviates wildly. A central mainspring barrel here powers two independent gear trains, with a separately sourced power for the chronograph. The chronograph uses a column wheel and also brand new kind of clutch system that is more for regulation than power. When engaged, a the 1/100th hand in the upper left subdial rockets across discreet stops as a foudroyante. Where most chronographs display the levers and cams of the chronograph proudly on the caseback, the Centigraphe architecture demands sandwiching them between the mainspring and dial. With all this, usual FP Journe finishing techniques apply with circular Côte de Genève, black polished screw heads, hand engraving, and anglage.

The dial of this Centigraphe is solid pink gold, but largely dominated by the complication. The upper left subdial houses the impressive 1/100th hand, the upper right subdial revolves once every 20 seconds, while the subdial at 6 is graduated for 10 minute intervals. This layout demands no central chronograph hand, leaving the outer track to be traditional Journe numerals only. The 40mm case houses a very distinctive, patented rocker style pusher for engaging the complication. That places the crown at 4, which is a different case aesthetic than most chronographs. The aesthetic is heavily technical and purposeful, but also beautiful as a result. Despite all the complication and engineering here, the case is just 10mm thin.

The Centigraphe Souverain was produced from 2008 until 2018, and lives up to the latin written near 4. FP Journe truly invented and made, or Invent et Fecit, the Centigraphe from idea to wristwatch. Few independent watchmakers, let alone large watch brands, are capable of such technical and creative engineering. This chronograph has pushed the boundaries of what is possible, in an impressively wearable and beautiful package. There are few watches which have truly advanced the world of mechanical watchmaking, but the Centigraphe Souverain was absolutely one of them.

This Centigraphe Souverain presents in excellent overall condition. The case bears light surface wear with strong edges and deep hallmarks. In all likelihood it has not been polished. The dial shows no signs of damage. It was given a full mechanical service in 2024 and running well in specification. It comes with its full set and the pictured original strap and buckle.

This example is modeled on a relatively large 7.5" wrist.