43031, Perpetual Calendar, 'Vieux Panier’ Guilloché Dial, Platinum

One of the most celebrated 1980s perpetual calendars, the ref. 43031 debuted in 1983 (ahead of the 3940) with the intent to declare a return to complicated mechanical watchmaking. It debuted at a time when the ‘holy trinity’ were reaffirming the value of skill and complexity in mechanical watchmaking. Increasingly appreciated, this period of Swiss history produced some of the most beautifully restrained complications the world has seen. This particular 43031 is incredibly attractive and surprisingly rare: platinum with ‘Vieux Panier’ guilloche dial. 

Production of the ref. 43031 spanned approximately 23 years, from 1983 into the early 2000s, with annual outputs that varied widely—ranging from approximately 20 to 100 pieces per year. Most estimate fewer than 2,300 total examples were made, a figure that places the 43031 amongst the rarer perpetual calendars of its era compared with contemporaries. Unlike references from those peers, the 43031 was produced exclusively in 18k yellow gold and platinum, the latter comprising less than 10% of production. 

The second major series of production introduced a detail that elevated the watch considerably: the guilloché dial. Executed in a patter that resembles brush strokes, it is amongst the most beautiful dials Vacheron Constantin has made. This example exhibits the first type of guilloché dial, with a small logo and Swiss, not Swiss Made at 6. Interestingly, this VC is the only of its contemporary peers to feature a moonphase disc made of lapis stone.

The case of the 43031 is here in 950 platinum, featuring a stepped bezel and long, straight lugs. This design gives the 43031 (and 43032 by extension) a strong wrist presence than AP’s 5548. In wearing, it is no the lugs but thinness which is immediately evident: a case 7.95mm thin. This, thanks to the storied automatic calibre 1120/2 QP, a JLC 920 ébauche finished to Geneva Seal standard with a beryllium rotor rail. Additionally, where AP’s case correctors sit proud of the case edge, the VC’s correctors are flush. 

Royalty in neo-vintage, the 43031 is a celebration of classical, complicated mechanical watchmaking's permanence in Switzerland. Its design is clearly considered and nuanced, with perfect proportions and skilled execution. Its influence persists in modern Vacheron Constantin QP designs, such as the Traditionnelle and Overseas QP, which both draw explicitly on the 43031’s balanced layout. Ahead of its time and rare relative to the 3940 or 5548, the 43031 is Vacheron Constantin at their very best. 

This 43031 presents in exceptional overall condition. The case is remarkably strong with crisp hallmarks and excellent edges to all surfaces. The dial shows no signs of damage or intervention. Its calibre 1120 QP is running well in specification on our timing equipment.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.