43031, First Series Quantième Perpétuel, Yellow Gold

The 1980s saw mechanical watchmaking return with an authoritative splash, first in the form of AP's 5548, then Patek's 3490, and finally this: the Vacheron Constantin 43031. In the span of a few short years, this trio made quartz look childish, telling the Land of the Rising Sun to take back their piezoelectric crystals in remarkable style. That style is only just starting to be fully appreciated. Scholarship on these watches has blossomed in recent years, with defined iterations and dial styles finally categorized and named. What we have here is a late First Series, with a spectacular light cream dial, a very classic spec.

The First Series dials began as Swiss only, but after a few short years was signed with Sigmas. All First Series had solid backs, Maltese cross crowns, and the storied automatic calibre 1120/2 QP, a JLC 920 ébauche finished to Geneva Seal standard with a beryllium rotor rail. The 43031 has a particularly interesting 48-month subdial at 12 to separate leap years, where a full turn takes 4 years. We find the busyness of that subdial quite beautiful. Additionally, its moonphase disc is solid lapis, which has a lustre not matched in AP's 5548. In additional advantage over the 5548, its month could be set independently. Despite its rotor, the entire case profile is just 8mm thin, a true ultra-thin 36mm case here in 18k yellow gold.

First Series production lasted from 83 until the early 90s and is arguably the most collectable iteration, as the Second introduced a busier 'automatic' line. Sigma dials were available in white or this cream tone, which ranges from milky to champagne to pale gold in various light.

Neo-vintage has surged in popularity in recent years, with watches like this at the front of that wave. We've been singing the praises of similar QPs for years in our Finds section, but it is a delight to be able to offer such an excellent example of the breed outright. It's more than a watch, it's a celebration of classical, complicated mechanical watchmaking's permanence in Switzerland.

This example presents in an excellent overall condition. The case has a light to moderate level of surface wear commensurate with age, no significant bashes or marks. Its lugs are very sharp and the hallmarks are deep, the case is exactly as you'd want it. Its dial is the cream tone variant with no visible damage, all printed scripts correct and unfaded. It comes on the pictured Molequin navy Saffiano strap, with box, booklet, original strap, and setting pin included (no papers). The watch was serviced just last year and is running well.

This watch is modeled on a relatively large 7.7 inch wrist.