17000, Oysterquartz, Tropical Purple ‘Pre-COSC’ Dial, Steel

This is an early ref. 17000 Osterquartz, the Datejust variant, and notable for two reasons. First, its dial simply reads Oysterquartz without any 'Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified' text. The earliest examples of the 17000 were not sent to COSC for certification, and are the only Oysterquartz to bear this ultra-clean aesthetic with only three lines known as Mark 1 or 'Pre-COSC'. Moreover, though originally blue, this dial has turned a deep, true purple with age and UV. This is a form of tropical patina we see occasionally on only blue Oysterquartz dials of this time. It is decidedly the most alternative iteration of Datejust there has even been and beautifully aged at that; it is the very best of Rolex's ingenuity on display.

The Oysterquartz is Rolex on the back foot, which paradoxically is when they've created some of their most interesting designs. It featured a degree of over-engineering that really asks for an analogy to Mercedes of that era. Not satisfied with the Beta 21 movement at the dawn of the quartz revolution, Rolex took five years to design and develop the Oysterquartz's calibre 5035. It debuted in 1977 and used a higher frequency oscillator, 32 Khz, which had the ability to self-regulate according to ambient temperature. Moreover, it is one of the most beautifully finished quartz movements that had been made in period, decorated with Geneva stripes. The calibre 5035 (Datejust) and 5055 (the Day-Date) set a new bar of +/- 0.7 seconds per day compared to the -4/+6 for mechanical movements.

The case was equally paradigm-breaking, with a fully brushed integrated Oyster bracelet and smooth bezel despite Datejust naming. Its distinctive, angular lines are quite unlike anything Rolex has made before or since. Though 36mm, the aggressive lug profile lends a slightly larger stance on wrist.

The Oysterquartz's calibre and history are special in every respect, one of the most creative and different offerings we've ever seen from Rolex. Collectors have been long been asking for revival of the line, particularly in light of the successes we've seen other quartz watches enjoy of recent years. But this is from the era when quartz mattered, when quartz was the future, and this was the flagship Rolex bar none. The cherry on this delicious quartz cake is that this one still has its full set as well.

This 17000 presents in good overall condition. The purple dial tone is even and with only a very light fading of print. The tritium applications are all cream and even, all pips present. The case has seen a very light polish but retains defined edges and even proportion. There is a light mark that shows up up in some lights on the lower left lug upper. The level of surface wear is quite light, bracelet particularly. The bracelet is very tight and will fit up to a 7.5 inch wrist. Its calibre 5035 has just been given a fresh battery and is running well. It comes with its box and papers from new, including everything but the hang tag.

This watch is modelled on a relatively large sized 7.5 inch wrist.