1675, Gilt Exclamation Dial, GMT-Master, Steel

The gilt dial GMT-Master will always hold an extra dimension of glossy appeal to serious collectors. But not all of them look like this. The 1675 is undoubtedly one of the great pillars of vintage sport Rolex. Recognizable from across five rooms, the GMT-Master design found its footing here and proved so successful amongst the newly-founded 'jet set' that it remained in production from 1959 until 1980, one of the longest single-reference runs in Rolex history. In that time, the reference evolved through a considerable variety of cases, movements, dials, and bezels. This particular 1675 is distinguished by its gilt-gloss 'exclamation' dial, beautifully ghosted early fat font bezel, and spectacular overall condition.

The GMT-Master began with Pan-Am in the mid 1950s, whose pilots found themselves often having to keep track of more than one time zone. It was the dawn of the jet age, and instantly the pilot's GMT-Masters became a symbol of the newly minted jet set. From that initial 6542 design, the GMT-Master has changed all details over the years, but the fundamental design has remained unchanged. The 1675 added the practicality of an aluminum bezel and presided over the transition of gilt to matte dials. It was also the watch that popularized the GMT-Master, where the 6542 was far smaller production. Over the production of the 1675, there are roughly 18 known dial variants. This 1961 example is from very early in 1675 production, with a tiny pip of luminous material below the 6 marker (but above the Swiss signature) which gives it its exclamation nickname.

Many professionals have speculated as to the reasoning for an underline and/or exclamation point in Rolex dials of this era. When viewed in chronology with Geiger readings, most agree that both were used to demarcate the transition from high radium content luminous material to low radium content, the very start of tritium but before the 'T' designations were standardized next to Swiss. Exclamation dials are found from 62xK-990K serials, or about 3 years at the start of the 1960s. They were succeeded by underline dials, which served a similar purpose, then matte production began.

This 40mm steel case also exhibits one of the most desirable early pointed crown guard (often abbreviated as PCG) styles, where the shape resembles a parrot's beak. These are sometimes called 'Cornino' by the Italian collectors. After the early 1960s production, this evolved into a flatter pointed shape. The bezels on these early examples also have a considerably courser knurling.

The GMT-Master has always perfectly blurred the line between offering the no-nonsense professional, tool-oriented presence that vintage Rolex fulfilled so well and the opulent, luxurious attitude of the mid-century air travel. This was a Rolex that would look the part traveling from New York to St. Tropez for an evening's dinner, but also ensure you knew exactly when to call your significant other. That dichotomy is as clear today as it was in the Pan-Am pilot's 6542. This gilt dial 1675 with its layer of perfectly even gloss lacquer and beautifully aged early bezel adds an extra dimension to that formula, a golden depth and radiance that is largely only seen in the 6542 era. This exclamation dial represents one of the most charming eras of Rolex, where gilt and aluminum bezels crossed over. It is a gilt GMT-Master for the extremely well versed Rolex scholar and someone who appreciates details with a perfect preservation of light, original patina. A true exemplar of the breed.

This 1675 presents in remarkable overall condition. Starting at the gilt dial, all the gloss layer is beautifully glass with no visible damage. All original luminous material is present, with large domed plots which fluoresce correctly under UV. These applications match the handset perfectly under both lights. The gilt chapter ring remains perfect and uninterrupted, as does all gilt print. The bezel is an early fat font variant, lightly and warmly ghosted to the point that the red is bordering on orange whilst the blue is sky tone. Its case (69X,XXX serial) is fantastically sharp, a true stand out example that is very likely to never have been polished. The PCG crown guards extend past the bezel in their full original proportion. There is an honest and even level of surface wear on the case and bracelet, but no tells of polishing whatsoever. It comes on its original 6636 expanding Oyster rivet bracelet in a comparable strong state of condition, dating to 62. Its calibre was recently serviced in March 2024 and is running beautifully within specification with healthy amplitude on our timing equipment. The watch is sporting a Tropic 38 which was install at service.

This watch is modelled on a relatively large sized 7.7 inch wrist.