Privé Tortue, Yellow Gold

One of the oldest, most storied shapes Cartier has ever created made a return to form last year. The Tortue case was first made in 1912, only second oldest to the Santos and five years prior to the Tank. Since then, Tortue (meaning Turtle in French) releases have been far and few between in all variants, never in the main catalogue. This is the Privé collection Tortue, an elegant time-only made in 200 numbered examples. 

This Privé release edges closer to the original vintage case, 32.9mm in diameter with 41mm of length including lugs. The measurement that is most impressive, however, is vertical, just 7.2mm thin. Cartier prioritized thinness over chronometry or reserve, which, for this shape, makes the watch stand out amongst peers. It is one of true very thin contemporary watches of any manufacture. The design is respectful, but updated. 

The dial of the Tortue holds true to 1970s cues, with a railroad minute track, lacquered bent Roman numerals, and Breguet or Pomme hands (which hark back to the originals). The ‘secret’ signature at 7 complements a Swiss Made straddling 6. Its octagonal crown harks back to 1980s, with a blue cabochon. This Tortue is powered by Cartier’s calibre 430 MC, an extra thin manual developed in 1996 and intended for Métiers d’Art creations. 

This Privé wisely reminisces over the important points we adore from prior generations which were, until 2024, largely lost. It is a simple, humble, and well-executed modern dress watch that can recall real history in a way that few modern peers content with. The Tortue is whimsical, but refined, a simple watch that impresses in many dimensions.  

This Privé Tortue presents in excellent overall condition. Its case shows only extremely light signs of surface wear, with so significant marks. The factory strap is hardly bent. It comes with its full set.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.