Chronomètre Souverain, 38mm, Pink Gold

Alluring and rarely seen, 38mm examples of the Chronomètre Souverain are few, a hallmark of earlier years embodying perfect classical proportions. However, they are not solely from the early chapter of FP Journe. This is a special order 38mm Chronomètre Souverain in pink gold, featuring a granular, frosted silver dial made 2018. 38mm production officially ceased in 2015. However, FP Journe would accept special requests by their best clients for small case sizes after this time, fewer than 5 per year. These cases were remaining old stock from prior to the discontinuation of the 38mm Chronomètre Souverain in 2015. 

This dial is unique to the 38mm execution, featuring a delicate granular surface in bright silver. Made entirely in pink gold, the appliqué numerals are blocks of precious metal hewn and applied. FP Journe experimented with embossed numerals briefly before settling on appliques. Very few 38mm Chronométre Souverains have been made this this most modern silver appliqué dial technique—only low single digit numbers exist. It is one of the latest recorded made, as production even on special order has long since ceased. 

The Chronomètre Souverain is amongst FP Journe's most restrained, distilled works. Introduced in 2005, it immediately won the Men's Watch category at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. In the years since, the Chronomètre Souverain has established its reputation as the purest form of what François-Paul holds dear as a watchmaker. Perhaps most telling, though, it was a Chronomètre Souverain that François-Paul chose to gift his mentor, George Daniels, as most exemplary of his work in 2010. According to Pierre Halimi, who manages FP Journe in North America, FP Journe always wanted to launch with the Chronomètre Souverain. However, he understood he needed to prove his abilities first. This is why the Chronomètre Souverain came after the complicated and novel calibres. 

At release in 2005, this was one of the most over-engineered uncomplicated calibres from any manufacture and still is today. Calibre 1304 is based on dual mainspring barrels for more even torque and is hewn almost entirely of pink gold. The Chronomètre Souverain has a unique finish compared to everything else in the catalogue, with a base plate soleil graining. Bridges are striped and chamfered, with a sense of space and openness reminiscent of old pocket watches. This is helped by clever engineering, where the gear train that links the balance to the mainspring barrels run hidden under the dial as opposed to the conventional path across the caseback. The lack of wheels makes its free sprung balance appear self-driven. Calibre 1304 allows the Chronomètre Souverain case to wear remarkably planted and flat on wrist at just 8.0mm thin.

This Chronomètre Souverain is one of the most discreetly special FP Journes made, entirely separate to standard production and yet only distinct to those with a trained eye. The significance of its dial construction and proportions separate it at some distance to production models. Quite simply, it is not only one of the most beautiful dials FP Journe have produced, but proportionally perfect—and proportions make the greatest difference in how a watch is enjoyed.

This Chronomètre Souverain presents in exceptional overall condition. The case shows only light signs of occasional wear. Its dial is entirely flawless. The calibre 1304 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It comes with its complete set, on the pictured saffiano strap, with a green FP Journe strap included.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.