25681PT, 'Clover' Perpetual Calendar, Platinum

The ref. 25681 is a variant of the traditional 1990s Quantieme Perpetual which was not only daring in reviving complication, but equally daring in design. Affectionately known as the ‘Clover’ by collectors, its shrouded dial is concealed by the platinum case, in a way no other perpetual calendar is designed. This results in a uniquely difficult to produce crystal & case, from which it draws its nickname. Just 13 examples were made in platinum, of which very few have come to market. Example number 2 currently sits in the Audemars Piguet museum, this is example number 4.  

Interestingly, platinum examples of the 25681 were all sold through Asprey London, each engraved with retailer’s name on their caseback as is the case here. While still 36mm, the case includes an extra bezel step where the fairing of metal wraps toward the crystal. Indices have been moved to the case and off the dial. The dial design itself has changed considerably as well, with a radiating pattern extending from the handstack, mirrored in the case indices. All subdials are stepped and recessed. The handset is far shorter than the traditional reference, such that it is not obscured by the fairing. 

The case design outside of its fairing varies little from the traditional shape, still 36mm and under 8mm with with downturned lugs. Its caseback bears a serial number, case number, and Asprey signature. Interestingly, the upper fairing portion of the Clover’s platinum bears subtle inconsistencies to its edges, indices, and aperture which all point toward very manual, hand-performed casemaking techniques.  

123 examples of the 25681 ‘Clover’ were made over a tiny production timeline of 1988 to 1991. 82 were manufactured in yellow gold, 28 in pink gold, and 13 in this platinum. The Clover, despite its elegance, was not strong to sell in period. Production numbers point toward more of a small batch, experimental product placement similar to John Shaeffer models. In light of the way Audemars Piguet operate today, it’s easy to overlook just how experimental and daring the manufacture were willing to be in the 1990s. The Clover represents a bravery in design little-seen now, creative and genuinely unlike anything else ever made. 

This 25681PT presents in exceptional overall condition. Its case has not been refinished or altered, with excellent edges, lug-side brushing, and deep caseback engravings. The calibre 2120/2 is running well in specification, including all calendar functions. This example bears its full set, including many additional papers from Asprey directly.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.