139.035, Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen, Platinum

This ref. 139.035 was A. Lange & Söhne’s third-ever opened sapphire dial, the third Lumen. Following the Zeitwerk Lumen and then Grand Lange 1 Lumen, this is the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen. All share the smoked sapphire dial with luminous elements which allow a glimpse at the mechanics beneath. 200 examples of the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen were created, highly collected today. 

This Lumen is created around the Moon Phase. The 139.035 elevates the moon display with 1164 stars laser engraved and made luminous, creating a night sky in a single sapphire disc. This disc lies below a darker (yet still UV translucent) sapphire time dial which allows the stars and moon to charge while still not visible. This disc is dark to the eye, but not to the UV spectrum. The result is a symphony in technically sophisticated sapphire coatings and engraving. Numerals of the separated date display lie scattered, non-colinear under lighter sapphire as the backdrop to the Grand Lange 1 dial element proportions. The handset, including petite seconds, is luminous. The case is manufactured in platinum, where A. Lange & Söhne usually opt for white gold. Perhaps the Lumen treatment most befits a moon phase as the moon itself only reflects light and does not generate it.

Calibre L095.4 boasts a broad three-quarter plate with seven chatons and two floating islands reminiscent of early Lange 1 movements. Additionally, the escapement and fourth wheels receive their own ‘finger’ bridges in this calibre, with a black polished cap on the escapement wheel’s bridge. The hand engraved balance cock sports a floral motif, with a free sprung balance. It is comprised of 446 components. In addition, this example has a lovely deployant clasp.

The ‘Moon Phase Lumen’, as it’s often referred to by collectors, is an oddly romantic watch to have come from the Teutonic, famously reserved A. Lange & Söhne. This is Lange in a surprisingly playful, Romantic attitude. While an outlier in many ways, there are parallels. This is the Glashütte equivalent of a Swiss skeleton. The distinct approach of a Lumen, however, tones down and mellows the open dial, where skeletonization brightens and enlivens the effect. The 139.035 perfectly captures the dichotomy of Lange's austere yet revolutionary spirits in full measure, one of the more desirable watches made in the brand's earlier years with full Anthony de Haas influence.

This Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen presents in excellent overall condition. The case is extremely full with very sharp edges and only light signs of occasional wear visible on its surfaces. The dial shows no aberrations or signs of wear. It was serviced last year at Lange and its running precisely in specification today. It comes on its original strap with a factory Lange deployant clasp.

This watch is modelled on a relatively large 7.5 inch wrist.