5131R, World Time, Cloisonné Enamel, Pink Gold

The ref. 5131 stands as the modern revival of Patek Philippe's enameled world timers, bringing cloisonné handcraft back to the manufacturer's multi-time-zone mechanics after more than forty years. Announced in late 2014 as the pink gold expression of the series (following the initial 2008 launch of the 5131 family), the 5131R-001 was produced in small quantities over a roughly three-year production run before its retirement. Its vibrant cloisonné enamel dial depicts East Asia, Oceania, and the Americas, framed by a 24-hour ring and 24 reference city names.

The modern World Time complication traces directly to Louis Cottier, the Geneva watchmaker who invented the multi-time-zone mechanism in the 1930s. Patek Philippe delivered its first Cottier-system watches in 1937 and catalogued the ref. 1415 in 1939. Upon release, the complication sold modestly, with an estimated 115 total examples of the 1415 produced. The reference gained historic stature in the late 1940s when Patek began pairing Cottier's system with hand-crafted cloisonné enamel maps. Following the end of production of the dual-crown ref. 2523 in the mid-1960s, Patek Philippe paused production of enamel world timers for four decades. The complication returned in 2000 with the single-pusher ref. 5110, further expanding into a 39.5mm case with the ref. 5130 in 2006. The union of world time mechanics and cloisonné art was finally re-established upon the debut of the 5131 in 2008.

The 5131 retained the 5130's 39.5mm case architecture and movement, but distinguished itself through three hallmark features: a hand-enameled map center, city names rendered in italics, and the brand signatures "Patek Philippe" and "Genève" engraved directly into the bezel rather than printed on the dial. This deliberate execution leaves the central artwork completely unbroken. (The ref. 5231 that succeeded it in 2019 ultimately returned the text to the dial).

Each dial begins as an 18k gold disk. A master artisan shapes ultra-fine gold wire to outline continents and coastlines, fills the resulting cells with pulverized enamel paste, and fires the plate in a kiln at temperatures exceeding 850°C. The cells are refilled and refired multiple times to achieve luminous color depth before the surface is stoned smooth. Four pink gold dots mark geographic reference points, while a ring-shaped hour hand recalls Patek's mid-century world timers. 

Powering the watch is calibre 240 HU, Patek's ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic movement with an integrated world time module: 3.88mm thick, featuring a 22k gold off-center rotor, 33 jewels, and a 48-hour power reserve. A single press of the pusher at 10 o'clock simultaneously advances the hour hand and rotates both the city and 24-hour disks by one-hour, while a coupling patented by Patek in 1999 leaves the minute hand undisturbed. 

Produced in small quantities across a three-year run, the 5131R connects Patek Philippe’s modern world timers to its most prized mid-century handcrafts. Originating from the initial year of documented deliveries, this example presents a rare convergence of Cottier mechanics and a traditional cloisonné dial.

This 5131R presents in excellent overall condition. Its case bears only very light signs of occasional careful use and no significant marks. The hallmarks are perfectly preserved with sharp edges. The enamel dial has no hairlines or fractures of any kind, its dial overall is perfectly preserved. Its calibre 240 HU is running well within specification on our timing equipment and all world time functions are operating properly. It comes with its complete set including presentation box, inner & outer boxes, all original papers including certificate of origin, original strap, and deployant clasp.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.