We all have to occasionally lament the one that got away. No, I don’t mean significant others from years gone by. I mean vintage Breitlings. Three years ago I sold a 765 AVI and have regretted it every day since. I’ve easily forgotten Subs, Speedmasters, and even a Saxonia. But...

There is nothing I can say about the 1016 Rolex Explorer which has not been said already. It’s one of the most understated yet important references of the Swiss Manufacture’s history. It sports a plethora of famous owners, every day wearability, dress potential, and (most importantly) humility. The 1016 might...

Outside of the standard Rolex, Tudor, and Zenith, Lemania’s single pusher chronograph has to be considered amongst the most elegant military designs. Lemania created chronographs for Sweden, South Africa, and the UK. Powered by the simple Lemania cal 2220, the chronograph has register functions encoded entirely to the single pusher....

Modern Panerai gets a hard time from many enthusiasts. Some have called them ‘the new Hublot.’ Others have coined the motto ‘rebranding the Luminor since 1990.’ A fraction of that criticism is deserved, while the larger ratio is not. However, even the most cynical collector cannot deny the depth of...

This marvel of engineering is one historically significant piece of unobtanium from the great Patek. Never one to rest on laurels, Patek Philippe has been leading the way in mechanical watchmaking innovation for some time. In 2011, their ‘Advanced Research’ division (roughly 70 R&D employees who enjoy an experiment) created...

The early Aquatimer 812 AD is a thing of austere beauty, very unlike the shouty models of today. They may easily be mistaken for other (lesser) super compressors, but make no mistake: this is one serious bit of kit. For their first ever diver, IWC utilized the famous cal 8541...

At first glance, this Air King may be very easily mistaken for its 1016 counterpart. However, the dial markings are not quite Explorer. Equally, the well-aged indices are raised. Its 36mm case was used for both models, though some 5504s produced with 1016 Explorer-styled dials blur this line. The 1530...

After Omega reissued 60th anniversary pieces last year, its trilogy series has been flooding the watch media. As a result, the 2913 Seamaster has received considerably greater attention recently, with today’s market eating up any examples in decent condition very quickly. This makes Meertz’s 1958 CK2913 here quite a rarity....

After the Compur and Aero-Compax, UG needed a chronograph to win public perception in the post-war luxury market. They introduced this Tri-Compax and it immediately won favor across the market. Tri was used to designate the three complications on feature: a moon-phase, chronograph, and calendar. It did so well in...

Heuer’s original TV-case Silverstone is an icon of 1970s race-timing and Heuer itself. Often seen on the wrist of Lauda’s F1 team, it has a certain magnetic appeal. Often forgotten, however, is the reference that design culminated in. In 1983, Heuer utilized Lemania’s 5100/5012 workhorse to create this, the 510.403...

Wait-who, what? No it is not a Chronometré grey. Ming started last year as a passion project from one watch photographer. The obsessive detail that shined through Ming Thein’s watch photography has manifest itself here as well. Ming is a very different new brand, demonstrating wisdom beyond their years. A...

The snap-back generation of 2446, sometimes confusingly called ‘Heuer’s Submariner’, is a base for much of the brand’s current appeal. The moniker exists not for the use of Valjoux’s 72, but the iconic status today. Heuer’s earliest screw-back Autavias are more collectible, but these snap/compressor variations are no less interesting....

A true wild child of the 1970s, Zenith’s El Primero diver was a one-off design. There wasn’t anything like it before and I suspect there won’t be anything like it again. In an attempt to capture some of the burgeoning market, the brand took the 3019 high-beat movement and cased...

321 Seamasters must be amongst of the most under-rated Omega models of all time. Maybe that’s grandiose, but I ask you: what other reference offers the mechanical elegance, timeless design, and present-day value that it can? It’s one of the subtler choices you can make in vintage Omega. Here, a...

This must be one of the best purposeful designs from all of Sinn’s history. The 103 has been around in one variation or another for decades. However, these earlier Valjoux pieces are very attractive for their design and investment potential. The clean aesthetic, aged dial, early Sinn logo design, and...

Lying deliciously at the intersection of engineering, design, eccentricity, and investment lies this work from Francois-Paul Journe. When a collection begins to get serious, annual or perpetual calendars often make the list. With extreme rarity, engineering provenance, and a five day power-reserve, this particular Octa Calendrier serves its clientele very...

Massive watch proportion usually correlates to Audi ownership and a title beginning with “manager of”. Just consider MVMT, TW Steel, and the U-boat startup thing; you get the gist. However, there is another way: massive proportion with proportional elegance. It’s a rare thing, but it does exist. I can only...

Only produced for one year closely after the first-ever 6204 Submariner, the 6205 was first to feature iconic Mercedes hands and text “Submariner” on the dial. Every Rolex Submariner since has inherited and built on this DNA. The appeal of the 6205 is clear; this is probably the cleanest Rolex...