Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.2

If Ferdinand Berthoud doesn’t ring a bell, here’s what you need to know in an instant download. Think high independent watchmaking underwritten by Chopard, well above LUC. Think marine chronometry roots, re-interpreted for the wristwatch, as the name takes from one of the most accomplished and inventive, insatiable watchmakers of the 18th century. And think effort, as this calibre is a 230 component cylindrical hairspring with well over 100 hours of watchmaker’s time invested in each calibre on finishing alone. The FB name was revived in 2015 and has won outright at GPHG twice since. They exist to reimagine the greatest pocket watches and chronometers of FB’s century using modern techniques and materials. This is the 3SPC, which is the most dramatic display of a cylindrical hairspring that mortals, well-heeled mortals, can aspire toward.

The 3SPC was inspired by the No. 26 decimal pocket watch from 1793, released in 22. The dial, and part of the case opposite the crown, are almost entirely dedicated to showing off a cylindrical hairspring. It is massively dramatic, made entirely at FB with hand-curved terminals, and required 2 years of development and learning to get working to COSC standards. The spring is the rate-limiting factor of production, which means only 25 3SPC are created yearly. You can count on one hand the number of watches that have attempted this feat in the last decade, a nod to marine chronometry and concentric accuracy that is, well, a bastard to make. All that is worth some sapphire in the pink gold case side.

The rest of the calibre is rhodium nickel, with some historically-accurate decor. Yes, bridges are bevelled by hand. Yes, individual gear teeth are also micro-bevelled like Lange. But there are historic nods to prior FB from centuries ago. The mainspring barrel bridge reference’s one of the brand’s minute repeaters. The skeletonized hands nod to an astronomical regulator clock. All the many bridges are arranged beautifully with minimal separation like a map of Paris, only cut away to reveal gears. And an industrial dial-side escapement is always welcome. It’s the most minimal offering from the very highest ability of Chopard, which turns out to be one of the most dramatic dial-side experiences of any time-only non-complicated watch of the last few years.

This example looks to be hardly worn if at all. It is the first of its reference to come to market, full stop. It comes with all the works from a well-regarded London retailer.