1. Choosing What You Like

(Erik here: duh, but it’s true.)

Understanding the watch you're buying is important as it ensures that you're making an informed decision based on your needs, preferences, and budget. In rebuilding a collection, some choose versatility as a guiding principle, and you might want to have a watch for every occasion. You might consider choosing a watch for its versatility as an excuse to try on as many watches as possible and allow your instincts to guide you.

When I imagine rebuilding a collection from scratch and choosing only three watches, the contenders would be the Patek Philippe 3940J, the Rolex 1675 GMT, and the Gold 145.022 Speedmaster. Collectively, this three-watch ensemble offers a well-balanced assortment for the various lifestyle scenarios I could imagine finding myself in. The Patek caters to formal events, the GMT serves as a robust daily companion, and the Gold Speedmaster adds a touch of luxury and rarity to the collection.

Unique 3940J for Michael Ovitz, former President of Disney. Image credit to Phillips Perpetual.

Gilt dial 1675. Image credit to Wrist Icons.

Astronaut Scott Carpenter’s Actual 145.022-69 BA. Image credit to Wind Vintage.

1 of 26 ‘London’ Edition, British Racing Green Reverso 1931. Image Credit to A Collected Man.

2. Assessing Influence

In rebuilding a collection, you might want to think about how much of your wishlist is what you really like and how much of it is just what’s having a moment of hype or cultural excitement. As we live in the age of social media, platforms like Instagram and TikTok wield significant influence over the watch collecting landscape, shaping trends, preferences, and perceptions. We’re constantly bombarded with messaging about what’s desirable, and exposure to curated feeds and moody wristshots can create a sense of urgency and FOMO that may push us towards certain watch models or brands.

Then again, the influence of social media is not always absolute. We all know that this influence isn't inherently negative. Think of it as a tool for informed decision-making: gathering insights, reviews, and real-world experiences from a global community of watch enthusiasts. This kind of exposure has probably helped all of us refine our own tastes and make more informed decisions based on a broader understanding of the watch market.

Ultimately, if you’re like me, you might want to try to minimize the effect of popularity or hype surrounding a watch in your purchasing decisions. Although I do appreciate and own popular watches among collectors like the Speedmaster, my goal is that the level of popularity alone should never dictate my choice to make a purchase. This is especially true if you don’t see your own tastes reflected in what’s highly Instagrammable: maybe you're drawn to the charm of a vintage 1931 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, or maybe you prefer the slightly avant-garde appeal of a Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Quantième Perpétuel. Whatever your style may be, let your collection be a reflection of your unique tastes and preferences. If you see a watch that you like, just go for it!

A very rare Black Bay 58 made for French Special Forces Command (Commandement Des Opérations Spéciales) with dial text in French colors, available with us now and the first ever offered to market.

3. Leave Some Room to Flexibilty.

Change is inevitable. Yes, trends come and go, and tastes evolve over time. I used to be strictly a vintage tool watch guy, but now I lean towards dressier, unusual looking, or vintage watches (or all three, like the Piaget Polo). Your preferences will most likely shift as time passes, and your collection will reflect these changes over time. Who knows? The watch that speaks to you tomorrow might be entirely different from the one that speaks to you today.

When I was starting out in 2016, I made a purchase that I ultimately regretted. It was the OG ETA-powered Tudor Black Bay, which I later found was too bulky for my wrist, making it uncomfortable for me to wear every day. I had no idea what I was buying and that decision was influenced by the fact that I had just entered the workforce and needed a nice watch. It was a lesson in understanding that sometimes what we think we want isn't always what we need. I eventually let go of it and swapped it for a Black Bay 58 instead, which suits me better (also, fun fact: this was my wedding watch, so my wife got one too). This experience taught me the importance of being open to change and reassessing our choices as we evolve and grow. It's okay to admit when something isn't working and to embrace new opportunities for improvement and fulfillment.

Above all, enjoy the journey of rebuilding your collection. Sure, some watches hold their value, and some even appreciate over time. It's hard to ignore that aspect, especially when you're spending your hard-earned money. But if we focus too much on watches as financial assets, we risk losing sight of what drew us to collecting in the first place – the sheer enjoyment of it all!

An original Eberhard Scientigraf with an ‘Explorer’ dial next to the first Breitling Superocean model, ref. 1004. Both currently in Exclusives.

4. Stop Worrying

You don’t need to explain to anyone why you like a certain watch. One of the joys of watch collecting is the opportunity to express your individual style and personality through your collection. As you rebuild, you’re free to take the time to explore different styles, complications, and designs that resonate with you on a personal level. If it resonates with you, then it's meant for you. To me, the painstaking process of sourcing a watch that you really want is the fun part of it. Think about it: there's something about scouring through online listings, visiting your local dealer, and trawling watch forums in search of that watch you seek (get it?). It's easy to feel overwhelmed by the plethora of options out there, but remember that you’ll be the one wearing it. Buy something that you’re gonna want to wear yourself. For in the act of rebuilding, in letting go of the old, we find renewal — just a thought.