Type 2C, Steel

Few independents have an eye for proportion or detail like Naoya Hida. Hida will be unknown to many, a nascent Japanese watchmaker who goes about things quite differently. This is a classic design, executed with modern technique. Hida previously held notable roles at JLC, VC, Breguet, and is widely credited with popularizing independents in Japan. Yet, he only started his eponymous brand in '18 with one aim: to create his own ideal wristwatch. This is the essence of Calatrava, reinterpreted to be contemporary through a distinctly Japanese lens, with particular attention to the craft of the dial. Hida only makes 15-20 Type 2 watches per year and proudly records yearly production on his site.  

The soul of any NH is its dial. The Type 2C is formed from two unusually thick pieces of solid German silver (the outer chapter ring is a separate piece). The dial is polished to a mirror finish then media blasted lightly, leaving texture and mirror gloss all mixed in. Then each Arabic numeral is engraved, freehand, by one man (which is why the silver dial blank has to be unusually thick). That is an art form in itself and you'll see slight variations across all NH dials. The numerals are then filled in lacquer. The minute and petite seconds tracks are machined separately, brushed, and applied. The hands are mirror batons with a blued centre seconds. Hida demonstrates exceptional ability to perceive proportion between elements and execute in nuance.

The 37mm case is CNC machined by an aerospace manufacture, just 10.2mm thin. The calibre is a manual 3020CS, a Valjoux 7750 ébauche for two main reasons. Hida wanted a movement to totally fill the 37mm case and this does. Lastly, the 7750 has a very mechanical, chunky winding feel which is a bit vintage and Hida wanted that increased mechanical tactility every time you interact with your watch. The calibre features a reworked winding mechanism for a vintage feel.

These are the auspicious early years of a very interesting watchmaker who enjoys taking his time. A watchmaker for whom every detail obviously matters monumentally (both of which are why you'd have to wait many years for one new today). That philosophy is not for everyone, but it creates a very beautiful object at its end.

This Type 2C presents in excellent overall condition. The case bears light signs of surface wear, with one minor mark at 2:30 visible in the last image. The dial shows no signs of damage. Its calibre 3020CS is running well in specification on our timing equipment.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist, with our Saffiano Strap in Grand National Brown and the original Naoya Hida Calf (only the NH Strap with its pin buckle are included in sale).