Archive for March 2021
The Fully Mechanical Digital: FP Journe’s Vagabondage III
If there’s one thing I’ve taken away from this COVID era in the watch world, it’s that the market comes in waves. I’d waited two years without seeing a single decent 765 AVI. Then, all of sudden, three hit Chrono24 within a month. I waited even longer for an IWC 3705. Then, following last month’s…
Read MoreTropical AP Royal Oak ‘Kasparov’ Chrono 25860ST
The range of Royal Oak variants on offer today is hard to keep up with. There’s the perpetual, offshore, diver, concept series, and various limited editions. However, before the upsized offshore chrono, there was this: the Kasparov. Making any adjustment to the iconic Royal Oak was always going to be controversial. This was one of…
Read MoreThe Forgotten Pilot: Glycine Airman 1
Glycine were among the first to offer a GMT complication, right on the heels of Rolex and Omega. Their pilot offering quickly gained favor with military and civilian aviators alike. It featured a 24-hour dial and lockable bezel with hacking seconds. The design was tool watch to the core. Perhaps that is what appeals so…
Read MoreAn honest Tudor 9411/0 Snowflake
The ‘snowflake’ sub is increasingly a classic. It’s like a 5513, but you’d have to actually be into watches to either own or notice one. That obscurity, when tethered to real watchmaking and history, is charm I go weak for. However, lemon-lume 9411s and MN milsubs are growing more expensive by the day, it’s worth…
Read MoreTropical Universal Genève 204610/4 Polerouter Date
The Polerouter is probably the best entry point into our addiction. The model offers incredible breadth, engineering innovation across multiple fronts, and Genta design all at a not-yet-absurd entry point. The Polerouter was released in honor of a first flight over the North Pole, hence the title. More impressive, however, was the introduction of a…
Read MoreAn Ultra Thin Vacheron Constantin 39005
Dress pieces don’t come much more delicate than this humble but beautiful VC. The oldest running Swiss watch manufacture was just clawing back its territory in the early 90s after the quartz crisis. It did so with the 222/Overseas, a few classic chronographs, and a swathe of extremely elegant dress watches. This 39005 is from…
Read MoreA First Execution Certina DS Diver 5601-012
Certina has a varied history with many high points. At various intervals they have been a movement manufacture and later full watch manufacture. In the early 60s, Certina went wild for the dive watch. In truth, almost everyone went wild for the dive watch. But Certina did so with daring, unique designs and (technically, though…
Read MoreIWC Pilot Mark XVII ‘Le Petit Prince’
The modern standard for the pilot has been set by the IWC mark series. From the original X & XIs on the wrist of RAF pilots to the clean design of the XV, the model has seen a slow evolution always fit to purpose. This is a tool watch. But this tool watch is a…
Read MoreCartier CPCP ‘Wandering Hour’ Tank 2554
When you think of Cartier watches, you probably imagine Jacqueline Kennedy and her tank. At a stretch, your mind may run to the crash or new asymetrique. What you almost certainly do not immediately imagine is a Cartier Paris Collection Privée (CPCP). Yet, if you’re reading this blog, you should. The CPCP range was an…
Read MoreValue Proposition: Universal Genève Space-Compax 885104
If you were to press me to name the ultimate Universal chronograph, I would struggle but ultimately crown the 881101 ‘Eric Clapton’. However, for fun, wrist presence, and off-brand moonwatch vibes, you really can’t compete with this close second—the bizarre and beautiful Space-Compax. Origin and purpose of the Space-Compax remain foggy at best. Some guess…
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