Posts Tagged ‘Tourbillon’
DB16 De Bethune Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
It is universally understood that De Bethune make spaceships for the wrist. Except, they haven’t always. In fact, the first decade was largely extremely classical with Roman or Breguet-like numerals, pomme or feuille hands, and remarkably normal cases. Collectors are starting to talk about early De Bethune with the kind of hard-line separation that Journe…
Read More5303R Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon
The 5303R is much more than just the only Patek Philippe repeater that Sylvester Stallone hasn’t yet flipped. It is the only Patek Philippe wristwatch with its tourbillon visible dial side. More notably, it was first to have its chiming hammer and gongs dial-side as well. And it is directly linked to Singapore and Southeast…
Read More3357 Breguet Classique Tourbillon
There are many watchmakers today with immense history who seem a bit aimless, but no brand extends so far in both directions as Breguet. This is the 3357, a watch whose architecture was designed by Daniel Roth in the mid-1980s Chaumet era which is still in the catalogue today. Breguet was Daniel Roth’s first ground-up…
Read MoreHaldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon
There’s no CNC machine at Haldimann, an independent whose philosophy is about as far from Rolex as watchmaking gets. The most modern machine they have is an optical microscope from the ’60s. I suspect if you showed an iPhone to Beat Haldimann he’d shout witchcraft and report you to the church immediately. Haldimann’s workshop and…
Read MoreSkeleton 3355 Breguet Classique Tourbillon, Platinum
Breguet around Daniel Roth was something else. This is a 3355, which might sound a lot like 3350 if you know your Breguet. Roth worked closely with Lemania for three years to develop this one-second tourbillon, which debuted in 1989. In fact, after Roth branched out on his own, this movement served as the ébauche…
Read More25643BA Audemars Piguet ‘Sun Ray’ Tourbillon
If the tourbillon is often utilized a bit garishly (and let’s be honest, it is), it certainly didn’t start that way. Despite almost no one knowing the reference and it rarely receiving a mention at all, this ‘Sun Ray’ ref. 25643 was the world’s first self-wound tourbillon wristwatch and the first to be serially produced.…
Read MoreJade Dial FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain
I always laugh a bit, quietly to myself, when first point of interest someone mentions about their watch is rarity. Rarity is great, market-marking even, but not interesting. FP Journe created Black Label, which I always thought was a Johnnie Walker for masochists, to reward their clients with something less common. Boutique exclusives for VIPs,…
Read More3357 Breguet Classique Tourbillon
Swatch Group haven’t managed to fuck up every one of their brands just yet. The day a Swatch x Breguet ‘collab’ arrives will be the day I lose faith in modern mainstream watchmaking. Some things weren’t meant to be distilled. Breguet stands for watchmaking quality above all else. Even if a tourbillon has never made…
Read MoreHaldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon
There’s no CNC machine at Haldimann, an independent whose philosophy is about as far from Rolex as watchmaking gets. The most modern machine they have is an optical microscope from the ’60s. I suspect if you showed an iPhone to Beat Haldimann he’d shout witchcraft and report you to the church immediately. Haldimann’s workshop and…
Read More740.056 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
I’m old enough in watch years to just remember a time when old Swiss men on the internet would call Lange ‘not as serious’ a brand as Patek Philippe. The comparison is useless, the two manufactures approach watchmaking with such distinct philosophies. But, if there were any remaining doubt, surely this ref. 740.056 puts it…
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