Posts Tagged ‘Perpetual Calendar’
Openwork 25668BA Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel
We all know the three neo-vintage QPs that brought watchmaking back from the dead, but the pair of openwork or skeletonized references from AP and VC have always stood a bit apart, out of the spotlight. They’re not just less often seen, they’re divisive. Perhaps they skirt too close to the edge or horological pornography…
Read More3057 Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar
The dial says Breguet, but really this QP is a Daniel Roth, the first creative project he undertook after working for JLC and AP. And this ref. 3057 is indicative of truth that is not logical but seems to hold: the very start of a creative career is often where the most magic occurs. Einstein…
Read More25686BA Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel
Some watches command premiums for reasons I find quite tricky to describe. The number of digits in Daniel Roth’s new price list under LVMH, for example, seems to have been defined by a roulette wheel. This is a strategy, I assume, borrowed from Biver. But others command a premium because they deserve to. Roger Smiths…
Read More43032 Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Quantième Perpétuel
In Lord of The Rings, the nine rings given to mortal men created Wraiths, Mordor’s most loyal servants. They roamed the lands ushering in Sauron’s reign, ending other ruler’s power. But in horology, the neo-vintage era had five emissaries to usher in the apocalypse of Japan’s quartz domination. Yes, there are five. Most discuss only…
Read More740.056 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
I’m old enough in watch years to just remember a time when old Swiss men on the internet would call Lange ‘not as serious’ a brand as Patek Philippe. The comparison is useless, the two manufactures approach watchmaking with such distinct philosophies. But, if there were any remaining doubt, surely this ref. 740.056 puts it…
Read MoreSalmon Dial 25661BC Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétual
Some watches just seem to burrow into your soul. This is the epitome of that paradigm. It’s a ref. 25661 in white gold with what AP call a rosé dial, salmon to us plebeians. Just 32 examples of 25661 were made in white gold, they’re hard enough to find as is. But with this dial,…
Read More3450 Patek Philippe ‘Padellone’
Yesterday, in an airport lounge, I spotted what I think was a Massa RM 011. What I’m about to say is not morally justifiable. Whenever I see someone over the age of 25 wearing an RM, I don’t think ‘Nice watch, I’m sure they love it.’ And that’s what I want my mind to do.…
Read More3057 Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar
There seems to be some magic about the inception of a career. Let me explain. Einstein invented the theory of relativity at 26, writing his seminal paper shortly after graduating while working in the Swiss Patent Office. Brandon Flowers of The Killers wrote Mr. Brightside at 22, two years after the Band formed. Zuckerberg created…
Read MoreSecond Series 3940J Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
Patek didn’t make the first neo-vintage era perpetual calendar, in fact they were late, a full 7 years. But they might’ve done it best. These are fighting words, I know, but to me the earlier 5548 and 43031 are scaled up, modernized versions of first AP 5516, incredible in their own right and responsible for…
Read MoreH40 Roger Dubuis Hommage Perpetual Calendar
There is no greater shame than seeing a once pioneering, irreverant watchmaker become diluted in selinity, as different ownership structures muddle that once-crystalline purpose. There’s a terrible feeling that acquisition will see an independent go from unbridled passion to release after release of tired and thoughtless nouveau-riche cash grabs. That doesn’t have to be the…
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