Mk3 A386 Zenith El Primero

A386-Zenith-El-Primero-Mk3

Few chronographs don’t get the credit they deserve like the A386. Because I try to be a bit professional here once in a while, I threw the search terms ‘Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, Heuer Carrera, and Zenith El Primero’ into Google Trends to approximate the relative interest (specific vintage references don’t have enough volume). Over…

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Tropical Dial A384 Zenith El Primero

Zenith-A384-El-Primero-Tropical-Dial

Zenith in 1969 was firing on more than all creative cylinders. They went up to 11, 12, and then 36,000. The cases went for pure revolution over evolution. Gay Frères invented a new, very summery, and very 70s bracelet. Wether the calibre 3019 PHC was the first automatic chronograph or not, it was certainly the…

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‘Cover Girl’ A3818 Zenith El Primero

A3818-Zenith-Cover-Girl-El-Primero

I’ll just say it, people who don’t appreciate vintage Zenith are philistines. Zenith were wildly experimental with case design and developed the most technically proficient automatic chronograph movement of the decade, still in use today. And yet, everyone still conflates them with 90s televisions. But don’t take it from me. So good was the 3019…

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‘Cover Girl’ A3818 Zenith El Primero

Cover-Girl-Zenith-El-Primero-A3818

Easy, breezy, and a total dime, Zenith’s ‘Cover Girl’ is named aptly. This ref. A3818 is about as niche as Zenith collecting gets, with the possible exception of the A3817. Yet somehow, even still today, Zenith collecting as a whole is still low-key. If you’re not the sort of person that reads Hairspring, the standard…

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01.0040.418 Zenith El Primero Espada Sub Sea Moonphase

Zenith-01.0040.418-El-Primero-Espada-Sub-Sea-Moonphase

Everyone knows the 3019 El Primero story. But, after, not everyone paid attention to just how far Zenith pushed the boundaries of what an El Primero could be. If one needed convincing that the El Primero is not only one of the longest lived chronograph lines, but also one of the most diverse, interesting, and…

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Mk3 A386 Zenith El Primero

Whoever came up with idea to make the three subdial registers of the A386 tri-color is a genius. In watch design, the gold standard is being distinctive enough to be recognized from across a room or mid-distance. Most meaningful designs nail this trick, but there are surprisingly few. Why does this matter? The majority slice…

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A384 Zenith El Primero

There’s nothing quite as brave as finishing second and handing yourself a jersey with ‘THE FIRST’ on the back of it. And yet, that’s this Zenith’s story. It’s not just brave though, it’s eccentric. Zenith also crossed the finish line with more style than anyone else by some margin. And that’s what really counts. Hence,…

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01-0150-415 Zenith El Primero Sub Sea

With one glance at the El Primero Sub Sea, you get the feeling this is the sort of watch Zenith couldn’t create today. Not because LVMH don’t have the technical ability, far from it. But because there are committees, cohesive brand strategy, and focus groups. I adore Zenith and belive they’re doing exceptional work. But…

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