Cartier Tank Americaine CPCP

Cartier-Tank-Americaine-CPCP-1737

Cartier’s re-entry to mechanical watchmaking was a strong one. Famed initially for the 1920 mechanical Tank, Cartier was a quick adopter of quartz. By the mid 1980s, 75% of their range was entirely electric (due to some acquisitions/mergers that created quartz vertical integration). In fairness, the technology was suited to the application. The Tank is…

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Jaeger Lecoultre ‘Tank’ 6129.21

Jaeger-Lecoultre-6129.21-Tank

At a glance, this is a Cartier. But upon close study, this JLC ‘Tank’ presents a very charming alternative to the French monolith. If you like the aesthetic of Cartier but want a Swiss watchmaker’s expertise, this may be your best option. The 6129 features a slightly more rounded 18K YG case with a snap…

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The Simple Lange: Saxonia Thin

A-Lange-Sohne-Saxonia-Thin-White-Gold

A simple Lange is an oxymoron, to be sure. But what better contradiction is there than this Saxonia thin? Lower independent manufacturers can often hide behind complication, as reverse engineering them is actually easier than developing a high standard of finishing. When you pair back all the the jumping hours, triple splits, and moonphases, a…

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The Forgotten Grand Seiko LE: SBGR305

Grand-Seiko-SBGR305

Grand Seiko and Omega are never ones to shy away from good limited edition. If it’s Tuesday, there’s a new Speedmaster LE. If the seasons are changing, count on Grand Seiko to turn that mood into a dial texture. One of the downsides to fairly frequent LE releases is that they begin to blur together.…

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A Very Unique Rolex 1611 Datejust Khanjar

Rolex-Datejust-1611-Khanjar-Yellow-Gold

In today’s collector climate, where Rolex buyers obsess over the slightest font alignment of a rail dial, it’s refreshing to find an authentically unique dial. An authentically unique piece, at that. Khanjar or Omani Rolex are their own market with a dedicated following. In recent years, they’ve become more highly sought after. This could be…

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Early 9F: Grand Seiko SBGV003 at No Reserve

Grand-Seiko-SBGV003

If you’d like a 9F equipped Grand Seiko to try out the brand, you could do worse than this JDM-Only SBGV003. Almost as a rule, I prefer mechanical movements. But there are exceptions. Well, basically three exceptions: G-shock, Beta-21s & Oyster Quartz, and 9F Grand Seikos. But that’s just me. This model comes from the…

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H. Moser & Cie Pioneer in Green

Moser-Pioneer-Centre-Seconds-Green-Fume

I often the more archetypal, paired-back offerings from a house the more attractive options. This Pioneer, for example, is like a distilled essence of Moser. The Pioneer offers a classic Fumé dial with a contemporary case, crown, and hand design. No frills. Instead, Moser focussed on perfecting their craft. The smoked dial steals all your…

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Kurono Tokyo JDM-Only Bullseye

Kurono-Tokyo-Bullseye

Hajime Asaoka is a self-taught, high-end, and independent watchmaker taking on Swiss heavyweights. Moreover, winning against Swiss heavyweights. Asaoka started as a product designer. Like many of us he fell in love with horology. Unlike many of us, he started machining and tinkering. He read George Daniel’s bible, watched too much Youtube, and began machining…

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An FP Journe Vertical Souverain Tourbillon

FP-Journe-Vertical-Tourbillon-Souverain

Describing technical innovation within a largely antiquated art is a mildly-hilarious thing. However, to properly describe this Journe, that is the task I have been set. The tourbillon is a complication which constantly rotates an escapement to even the effects of gravity on its balance spring. I’d refer you to this article by Breguet if…

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Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 in Guilloché

Roger-Dubuis-Hommage-H37-Guilloche

Amidst the Lamborghini collaborations and diamond-set double tourbillons, it’s easy to forget that Roger Dubuis also did understated elegance. He did it really, really well. Roger sadly left us in 2017, but is remembered as one of the more innovative and eccentric independent watchmakers. While today’s louder pieces are all good fun—the kind of thing…

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