Mk1 Porcelain Zenith De Luca

Zenith-De-Luca-Mark-1-Porcelain

When I say El Primero, you likely imagine the A386. You may even think A384, A3818, hell maybe you even think of the G381. What you almost certainly do not imagine is this: the early 90s chronograph which goes by De Luca. And yet, that’s a shame, because it’s one of the more classical modern El Primeros (if a…

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Albino, Porcelain 79160 Tudor Big Block

Albino-Tudor-Big-Block-79160

What makes a wristwatch great? Is it ultra-engineered complication? Ridiculous levels of hand finishing? Rarity? Artful expression? You won’t be surprised to hear, no one has a definitive answer. The attraction inherent to watch collecting is aa varied and deep as the threads of humanity itself. If you were to ask me why I like…

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Gilt Eterna Two-Tone Spillman Chronograph Circa 1940

Gilt-Eterna-Two-Tone-Spillman-Chronograph

This is not a watch one is priviledged to see in the metal frequently. And by that, I mean not ever. Finding anything built in 1940 but still in operation today is a rarity. Finding a wristwatch built in 1940 that is functioning perfectly demonstrates a level of dedication to longevity and quality that shames…

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885104/01 Universal Genève Space-Compax

Universal-Genève-Space-Compax-885104/01

If you were to press me to name the ultimate Universal chronograph, I would struggle but ultimately crown the 881101 ‘Eric Clapton’. However, for fun, wrist presence, and off-brand moonwatch vibes, you really can’t compete with this close second—the bizarre and beautiful Space-Compax. Origin and purpose of the Space-Compax remain foggy at best. Some guess that…

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Tillhör Televerket Breitling 815 ‘Long Playing’ Chronograph

Tillhör-Televerket-Breitling-Long-Playing-815-Chronograph

Telephone companies are not glamourous. Telephone companies are not sexy. Likewise, state-owned telephone companies are a particularly lackluster proposition. And yet, in 1970s Sweden, this particularly stylish steel Breitling defied that paradigm. Televerket, as mentioned, operated all phone lines in Sweden in period. The Swedish military had a brief romance with the Navitimer previous. So,…

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Rolex 3525 ‘Barilotto’ in Yellow Gold & Steel

Rolex-3525-Barilotto-Two-Tone

How good does this look? If you’re anything like me, the only valid reply is ‘quite’. In fact, I’ve said before that the two-tone Barilotto is perhaps the only Rolex which is simultaneously very conspicuous and very tasteful. The tones are loud, the profile is discreet. The manufacture is Rolex, but there’s very little branding.…

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Patek Philippe 130 in Steel

Patek-Philippe-130-Steel

As Patek’s first chronograph produced at meaningful scale, the 130 holds a special place in many collector’s hearts. It also happens to be one of their most diverse and longest-reaching vintage production runs ever. The design was given space to evolve from 1934 until 1964, with changes going so far as to include different calibres…

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Tropical Transitional 6262 Rolex Daytona

Tropical-6262-Rolex-Cosmograph-Daytona

Tropical dials have a tendency to polarize watch collectors like few other topics. Godiva 1665 DRSDs, caramel 321 Speedmasters, and latte-brown Cosmographs all have one thing in common: encompassing adoration or outright hatred. I have yet to encounter any middle ground ambivalence in the zeitgeist. Think Patek’s green 5711 caused division? Bring a hazel-tan 3700…

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Lip Genève Reverse Panda ‘Carrera’ Chronograph

Lip-Genève-Reverse-Panda-Chronograph-Carrera

Everyone loves an unfussy, two-register, 1960s Carrera analog. Everyone. We find them from Leonidas, Zodiac, Clebar, and even Sears (yes, that Sears). Lip, the quirky and often flamboyant French manufacture, used to make some more reserved designs. Among them: this somewhat classic two-register reverse panda. The simple design was available in a 36mm steel case…

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Mk1 Zenith A386 El Primero

Zenith-A386-El-Primero-Mk1

‘The want’ is very strong with vintage Zenith. I want an original covergirl, G381, A277, Moonphase Calibre 3019 PHF Prototype, I could go on. . . In that list most definitely lies the Mk1 A386. This is, to put it on the nose, the first of the first automatic chronographs. Why do I seek that?…

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