2762 Cartier CPCP Tortue Monopoussoir

2762-Cartier-CPCP-Tortue-Monopoussoir

The Monopoussoir is dead, long live the Monopoussoir. Yes, there’s a new Monopoussoir around but CPCP will always be a more significant moment in Cartier’s long and storied ascent out of the treacherous 1980s. There is just so much to this watch, culturally and tangibly. And I don’t even think one necessarily needs the sole…

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‘Piccolino’ 3055 Rolex Chronograph, Pink Gold

Piccolino-3055-Rolex-Chronograph-Pink-Gold

This is one of the great, ‘what might have been, had Rolex pursued a different path’ watches. It’s the 3055, better known as the Piccolino, and it has more in common with the Patek Philippe 130 than a 6265 Daytona. Piccolino means little ‘little one’, but it packs an outsized punch. It is an answer…

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‘Monoblocco’ 3525 Rolex Chronograph

3525-Rolex-Monoblocco-Chronograph

If you love your Daytona, you should know its grandfather. This is the ref. 3525, not the first Rolex chronograph, but likely the first Oyster-cased Rolex chronograph. It goes by ‘Monoblocco’, ‘Barilotto’, and ‘Prisoner of War’ all as nicknames. The first two are easy to explain, the third I’ll get to in a second. Barilotto…

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2447NST Heuer Carrera Second Execution

2447NST-Heuer-Carrera

There is no objective reason early Carreras should not be held in exactly the same esteem as manual pump pusher Daytonas. But that’s particularly the case for this, the 2447NST. NST here denotes a black dial with tachymetre, which really completes the minimal Carrera aesthetic by tying in Heuer’s motorsport history more literally. It’s properly…

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‘Small Daytona’ Dial 6240 Rolex Cosmograph

Rolex-6240-Small-Daytona

The 6240 is, arguably, the most important Cosmograph reference not to be hyped. It would not be a stretch to say that all screw-down Daytonas exist because of this reference’s lineage. Production numbers of the 6240 were exceedingly small at fewer than 2000 examples, as is the frequency of conversation surrounding it today. Two years after…

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1579 ‘Spider Lug’ Patek Philippe Chronograph

Patek-Philippe-1579-Chronograph-Spider-Lug

Lug design counts for at least half of the way a watch wears, its importance cannot be overstated. Assuming a case is reasonably proportioned, which is a tall order for some brands, the lug makes or breaks it. In car design, brands carefully construct a wheel & tire package with a balanced harmony of width,…

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DB12 De Bethune Chronograph

De-Bethune-DB12-Chronograph

De Bethune make wildly technical alien spaceships, right? Well, not always. At least it didn’t start that way. The early years of De Bethune were different, pre tenuous Starry Varius puns. This simple restrained chronograph, yes still made by De Bethune, is a magnificently uncommon thing. These were the early years of the manufacture, when…

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