Chronomètre Souverain, Pink Gold

The Chronomètre Souverain is amongst FP Journe's most restrained, distilled works. Introduced in 2005, it immediately won the Men's Watch category at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. In the years since, the Chronomètre Souverain has established its reputation as the purest form of what François-Paul holds dear as a watchmaker. Perhaps most telling, though, it was a Chronomètre Souverain that François-Paul chose to gift his mentor, George Daniels, as most exemplary of his work in 2010.

Put simply, this was one of the most over-engineered uncomplicated calibres from any manufacture in 2005 and still today. Its calibre 1304 is based on dual mainspring barrels for more even torque and is hewn almost entirely of pink gold. The Chronomètre Souverain has a unique finish compared to everything else in the catalogue, with a base plate soleil guilloché. Bridges are striped and chamfered beautifully, with a sense of space and openness reminiscent of old pocket watches. This is helped by clever engineering, where the gear train that links the balance to the mainspring barrels run hidden under the dial as opposed to the conventional path across the caseback. The lack of wheels makes its free sprung balance appear self-driven.

The silver dial emphasizes traditional chronometry and technique, with Clous de Paris guilloché at its center and embossed numerals which shrink playfully around the petite seconds to avoid being cut off. The power reserve shows 0 at full capacity instead of 56, an interesting choice which harks back to marine chronometers. The reserve is meant to show you how many hours since you have last wound it, which was the way traditional chronometers ran as it was more important that they never stop running. This is wrapped in a 40mm pink gold case with traditional 3-body construction and the signature rope crown. The calibre 1304 allows the Chronomètre Souverain case to wear remarkably planted and flat on wrist at just 8.0mm thin.

The Chronomètre Souverain quietly provided an approachable entry to the world of mechanical François-Paul Journe for many years after debut, but is increasingly regarded today as the ultimate in FP Journe simplicity. This is traditional, manually-wound watchmaking focused on chronometric performance, which allows for an ultra-flat wearing experience like no other Journe. It is understated, refined in the details, and perfectly proportioned: Journe's watchmaking, just distilled. It should be no surprise that the Chronomètre Souverain was the watch François-Paul thought befitting of his mentor, Daniels. One does not long for complication when the fundamentals are executed with an unrivaled creative and skillful mastery.

This Chronomètre Souverain presents in excellent overall condition. The case bears only very light signs of wear with hairlines on the pink gold. The lugs bear light signs of strap changes on back, which should be noted. It comes on the pictured black DeLugs alligator with original buckle and full set. The Manual Calibre 1304 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It comes with its full set.

This watch is modelled on a relatively large 7.75 inch wrist.