Chronomètre Souverain, 38mm, Platinum

The Chronomètre Souverain is amongst FP Journe's most restrained, distilled works. Introduced in 2005, it immediately won the Men's Watch category at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. In the years since, the Chronomètre Souverain has established its reputation as the purest form of what François-Paul holds dear as a watchmaker. Perhaps most telling, though, it was a Chronomètre Souverain that François-Paul chose to gift his mentor, George Daniels, as most exemplary of his work in 2010. According to Pierre Halimi, who manages FP Journe in North America, FP Journe always wanted to launch with the Chronomètre Souverain. However, he understood he needed to prove his abilities first. This is why the Chronomètre Souverain came after the complicated and novel calibres. 

This example, with its 38mm platinum case and silver guilloché dial is one of the original configurations. While these case and dial combinations endure, 38mm production ended in 2015. Its central seconds was a deviation from the brands offset display in previous watches. The printed arabic numerals taper gracefully to create space for the small seconds. Initially the Chronomètre Souverain was offered in either platinum or rose gold, both with silver dials. While the ten year anniversary brought the option of solid gold dials with raised numerals, this platinum and guilloché combination is the original vision for the watch here with classical proportions. 

At release in 2005, this was one of the most over-engineered uncomplicated calibres from any manufacture and still is today. Calibre 1304 is based on dual mainspring barrels for more even torque and is hewn almost entirely of pink gold. The Chronomètre Souverain has a unique finish compared to everything else in the catalogue, with a base plate soleil graining. Bridges are striped and chamfered, with a sense of space and openness reminiscent of old pocket watches. This is helped by clever engineering, where the gear train that links the balance to the mainspring barrels run hidden under the dial as opposed to the conventional path across the caseback. The lack of wheels makes its free sprung balance appear self-driven. The calibre 1304 allows the Chronomètre Souverain case to wear remarkably planted and flat on wrist at just 8.0mm thin.

The Chronomètre Souverain is one of the most discreet models FP Journe has made. Its time-only, central seconds display is underscored by the beautifully executed guilloché dial. The unique subregister layout and tapering numerals are subtle hints of the bold personality behind the design. The Chronomètre Souverain is Journe’s watchmaking prowess poured entirely into the flawless design and execution of an uncomplicated design. Here offered as originally envisioned and with classic 38mm proportions.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.