43032, Perpetual Calendar Skeleton, Platinum

Launched in 1984, ref. 43032 is the skeletonized sister of the 43031, the self-winding perpetual calendar Vacheron Constantin introduced in 1983. It arrived while the Swiss industry was still climbing out of the quartz crisis—a daring argument that thinness, complication and hand-finishing justified a mechanical watch as an object of skill and artistry rather than pure purpose. The platinum case measures 36mm across and under 8mm thick, with a stepped bezel and straight lugs: extreme proportional restraint around a movement meant to be admired. In fact, the 43032 arrived to the market nearly a full year ahead of AP’s first skeletonized QP in ref. 25636—meaning this was the world’s first skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch. 

Given the immense labor involved and low number of surviving watchmakers, Vacheron Constantin could only make 10-15 examples of the 43032 per year. Over approximately 15 years, Vacheron estimate that around 150 examples of the 43032 were manufactured in platinum alongside an estimated 350 examples in yellow gold. While the vast majority of platinum examples featured white subdials, this example is one of fewer than 20 known today with these deep blue tracks. 

The 43032’s calibre 1120 QP SQ took its venerated JLC 920 ébauche to new heights by opening up as much negative space as possible. Its mechanics are on full display from the front and back, with many bridges given unique treatments. Each example has its own expression of floral motif hand-engraved, with contrasting traditional black polish and anglage still visible on many components dial-side. Unlike either the AP or Patek Philippe competitor, the 43032 used a disc of lapis lazuli for its moonphase. Each subdial hand is feuille-shaped in white, while the main handset contrasts with a masculine dauphine shape. Even upon casual viewing, the 43032 has an immense visual impression. It is a deeply impressive celebration of traditional watchmaking ability and time-intensive handcraft.

The trilogy of early 1980s ultra-thin perpetual calendars from the 'holy trinity' have come to be widely-regarded as amongst the most significant and beautiful watches of the late 20th century. Their defiance and confidence sparked the return of strength to Switzerland. Each member of that trilogy has its own slightly elevated and collected variants. This is the ultimate Vacheron Constantin neo-vintage QP: the 43032 with blue subdials. It is obviously an effort born of sheer passion, with no quarter given to optimizing profitability or turn-around time. The aesthetic the 43032 created has gone on to define an entire category, but it all began here: the first skeletonized QP wristwatch. 

This 43032 presents in excellent overall condition. Its case bears deep hallmarks and engravings with fully defined lugs. The case shows only lighter signs of occasional use, commensurate with age. Its calibre 1120 QP is running well within specification. The watch includes its original Maltese cross platinum pin buckle.

This watch is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.