3970EP, Second Series, Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Platinum

This is 1 of just 11 known Second Series ref. 3970 examples made in platinum. The Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is Patek Philippe's most lionized model, an ambitious complication invented by Patek Philippe and still dominated by them to this day. The term PCC (used henceforth) is nearly synonymous with Patek to this day. The 3970 succeeded the 2499 in 1986, the most significant contribution of Philippe Stern's tenure over the brand despite arriving before he was President. It is defined by clarity and restraint, a bastion of traditional watchmaking techniques. This is one of the two most desirable series, inarguably in its rarest metal, and with an Italian calendar (ciao Bella). More impressive, yet, is its state of preservation.

The Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was born in 1941, in troubled times. Less than a decade after the Stern family purchased the brand, the world disintegrated. Brothers Charles Stern and Jean Stern knew that in adverse times they had to be more daring and inventive than any watchmaker had ever been to survive. Amidst chaos, they created the 1518: the world's first serial production Perpetual Calendar Chronograph wristwatch. It would be over a half century before any other brand attempted the feat. 

The 3970 was born in a time of uncertainty and optimism: the very origins of Swtizerland's resurgence to focus on complicated mechanical watchmaking post-quartz. It was defined by its creator, a more austere and disciplined watch than the 2499 which preceded it. At 36mm, the Ateliers Réunis case was a perfect balance between the 35mm case of the 1518 and the more excessive proportions of the 37.5mm Wenger-cased 2499. The case was partly tuned to the times, but interviews suggest Stern wished to express their prowess by placing immense complication in such a restrained case size. The lugs evolved to a longer, more commanding profile to compensate the case impression, with a more defined and beautiful concave step. That concavity is beautifully reflected in the bezel, creating total cohesion.

The 3970's dial is all efficiency without distraction. It maintains the key elements of the classic PCC layout, but elevated the experience by adding useful information in a clear, concise format. 3970 marked the introduction of innovative stacked subdial hands. It featured leap year indication at 3 under the chronograph minute totalizer and 24 hour indication at 9 under running seconds. This left a more useful complication while not altering the now-recognized dual apertures split by a chronograph hand at 12. This is the very picture of doing more with less, minimalism in full force. The Argenté dial is lightly grained.

The 3970 was introduced in yellow gold with contrasting subdials in 1986. That First Series is estimated to have been made in fewer than 100 examples over just that one year. This second series introduced the other classic 3 metals in late 1986 along with a screw-down caseback. It is widely accepted that fewer than 650 examples of the Second Series were made until 1992. The vast majority are in yellow gold. Most estimate that 60 examples of 3970 were made in pink gold (7 known 3971), 15 examples in white gold (4 in 3971), and only 11 made in this platinum (with no 3971 known). Even compared to First Series, this is the rarest standard production 3970 metal & series.

First and Second Series are most easily distinguished by their feuille handset, a critical principle of classic PCC design. Third and Fourth Series switched to batons. Additionally, the Second Series utilizes the 'American Typerwriter' font which so many find desirable from this time. The First and Second Series Argenté dial is slightly warmer and darker than the examples which followed on latter series. Despite the restraint and minimalist design cues, the 3970 still reserves many nods to the vintage bloodline which collectors adore.

In addition to the design, the calibre is from the height of the Lemania ébauche years. The CH 27-70Q predates the trend and demand for in-house watchmaking, instead a cohesive effort from all of Vallée de Joux. Based on the Lemania 2320 (2310 ébauche sister), the calibre was completely disassembled, regulated, and importantly finished at Patek Philippe to Geneva Seal standard, which stopped by 2009. The heavy modifications above the 2320 ébauche in order to create a Perpetual Calendar were entirely made at Patek Philippe.

The First and Second Series of 3970 are some of the most beautiful complicated Patek Philippes ever made, some would even argue the most beautiful. Regardless of that debate, it is an impossibly attractive PCC: the greatest complicated thoroughbred the world knew in 1989. This example from the eleven platinum Second Series, in this condition, with an Italian Calendar, and in its complete set is not a repeatable proposition.

This is one of the best-preserved examples of the 3970 Second Series in platinum known. The case is in our opinion unpolished. The hallmarks are remarkably crisp, the lug profile is sharply defined, the bezel has no rounding, and the inner lug sections are strong. The dial shows no signs of damage or intervention, with only the lights possible signs of patina.

One item to note is that the date of sale on the Certificate of Origin is fairly scribbly, with an Italian hand. It likely reads 92 but, in all honesty, is hard to decipher. Luckily, by serial, we know this example to be from 1991.

Set includes the original box (with setting pin), original leather folio, Certificate of Origin noting sale at Astrua SRL Torino, manual, pamphlet instructional in Italian, heat before closing note, history of Patek Philippe pamphlet, service centre list, unfilled Patek Philippe owner registrar, original strap, and original pin buckle clasp in platinum.

This is an example for those exacting collectors who must have the ultimate in condition and nothing less.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist, with both our Faroe Island Basalt Suede Strap (pictured, sold separately) and an upcoming Saffiano Strap (included).