3705, Flieger Chronograph, Ceramic

In 1994, at a time when the Schaffhausen manufacture was in a transitional era—straddling Günter Blümlein’s forward-thinking direction and Kurt Klaus’s technical mastery—the 3705 was a bold, if underappreciated, experiment. Its claim to fame lay not in its movement alone, but in its case material: zirconium oxide ceramic, a first for IWC. While the brand had already established itself as a powerhouse in tool watches with the Mark series and mechanical ingenuity like the Da Vinci perpetual, the 3705 carried these ideas into a sleek, militaristic chronograph form, produced for just a few short years before vanishing in 1998. It is the first ‘stealth’ ceramic aviation watch, made in fewer than 1000 example, ref. 3705. 

Ceramic, at the time, was almost entirely untested in serial watch production. Only a handful of white ceramic DaVinci prototypes had been tried prior in 1986, with pitiful sales. Blümlein’s backing meant IWC was willing to shoulder the risk, and so the 3705 became the further testbed. Regardless of DaVinci or 3705, IWC were at the tip of the spear in Ceramic technology. It is important to note this is not a coating, but Zirconium Oxide powder poured into a mould and fired to create an entirely ceramic watch case shape. This material does not scratch (extremely hardness) and is completely hypoallergenic.

Its movement, the Valjoux 7750, was a robust and familiar choice, anchoring the experimental case in something practical. However, it’s calibre was thoroughly reworked for reliability and solidity by now-independent Richard Habring. This combination of established mechanical reliability and avant-garde exterior was emblematic of IWC’s 1990s spirit, fusing tradition with daring technical bets.

Design of the 3705 leans heavily on IWC’s aviation heritage. The dial is pure function with highly legible Arabic numerals a warm honey tritium plots. The handset shape is unique to IWC and optimized for quick legibility. One detail, however, was unable to be realized in ceramic with technology of the time. This has led to the 3705’s signature steel pusher and fish crown aesthetic, which is unique to the 3705. While it was not immediately celebrated—in fact, sales were slow compared to its steel sibling, the ref. 3706—the 3705 projected an aura of seriousness that collectors would only begin to appreciate decades later.

While the 3705 has transcended standard IWC to become a collector’s choice, it is largely underappreciated as an early work of Blümlein. It is a tangible monument to IWC’s daring 1990s attitude and willingness to take risk. The 3705 is also genesis of IWC’s story with ceramic, which went on to define much of the brand. It is material science and aviation all coming together for one exceptional and rare chronograph, something of a stealth bomber attitude in wristwatch form. 

This 3705 presents in excellent condition. It dial shows no signs of wear or damage with beautiful honey-tone tritium. Its caseback only shows light signs of wear. The caseback also wears its original stick from Cosa Liebermann SA, authorized importer at the time. Its calibre 7902 is running well in specification. The case has no faults. It comes on the pictured brown nubuck, however the original strap is included as well, with its original steel IWC buckle. he watch comes with those two straps, as well as an IWC service box and original guarantee card in Japanese.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.