1016, Explorer, Steel

The Explorer name is a reference to the first ascent of Everest, where Sherpa Tenzing Norgay wore a prototype Rolex for testing. In their marketing genius, Rolex trademarked the name months before the ascent occurred, plans for the Explorer line were laid prior to completion of the famed expedition. The 1016 is not the first Explorer; the 6150 or 6350 hold that title, but venturing into that debate is riskier here than discussing politics. Still, the 1016 and its vast production span has captured the most attention from enthusiasts and offers entry points to ownership for even us mere mortals. It is classless, capable, collected, and uniquely pure. 

The ref. 1016 is where function meets restraint. There are obviously more luxurious Rolexes, and even some that are more robust. However, none can claim a more effectively designed dial. Its legibility is unmatched, so good that even the Sub. had to try its hand with the layout. Its production introduced updated movement technology of the calibre 15xx family, also present in the concurrently released 5512 and 1675, to the Explorer line. While the 1016 may not carry the same widely appreciated prominence as its peers, that is part of its charm. It is well known that Ian Fleming wore a 1016 daily. It likely served as inspiration for the original Bond watch referenced in his book series. Its subtle and versatile capability is a fitting match for 007. 

The reference’s long production run led to an immense number of dial types, spanning the transition from gilt to matte, and saw the first use in the model of ‘SCOC’ text in place of 'OCC'. While numerous updates were made in the 1016’s lifetime, the addition of hacking seconds in 1970 and transition from gilt to matte, the 1016 cemented the identity of the Explorer as a purist's tool watch. This example features a ‘Mark V’ matte dial from late in 1016 production, identified by the raised middle bars in the ‘E’s of the Explorer signature. While some collectors favor gilt dial variants, the aesthetic of a matte dial is arguably more in line with an Explorer’s tool watch identity. This is the final chapter of golden tritium on a matte dial.

If asked to picture an Explorer, an image of a 1016 will enter the mind of most collectors. On the surface this can be attributed to its long production run but it is also likely because the 1016 is the culmination of pure Explorer tool watch identity. It is the final Explorer reference where updates were made purely to improve its performance. The following 14270 with precious metal applied indices marked the end of this purity. While the Explorer was designed to live under the sleeve of a parka it is at home under the sleeve of a suit coat. This is a feat deliberately accomplished by other watches, but there is far greater charm when that versatility is achieved by happenstance rather than intention.

This 1016 presents in excellent overall condition consistent with its age. The case is full and sharp, including deep serial (1983) and reference engravings. There is light surface wear throughout with some larger marks on the bezel and case body. The dial has no visible damage though light patina exists on the handset. Its fully intact indices have taken on a uniform but subtle warmth, matching that of the original handset, and providing a lovely contrast to the otherwise neutral matte dial. It comes on a 78350 Oyster bracelet with similar level of wear and 580 end links. The bracelet code G5 dates to 1982. The calibre 1560 has an unknown service history but is running well in spec. on our timing equipment.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.