Brown Guilloché Dial Voutilainen Observatoire

Despite sharing a strong family resemblance, this Observatoire is not a Vingt-8. It’s what came before, in tiny numbers, powered by a quite modified and ridiculously-beautifully-finished Peseux 260 before Kari’s own calibre 28 was ready. There were fewer than 50 examples of the Observatoire made before the Vingt-8 took over the throne. It was so carefully made that the combination of this calibre, the 38mm case with teardrop lugs, and triple guilloché dial earned it the ‘Men’s Watch’ award at the GPHG in 2007. It’s an interesting watch not for rarity alone, but as the start of Voutilainen’s own efforts and design ethos. This is the watch that began an empire of traditional watchmaking.

The Peseux 260 is a rather interesting ébauche as well, it was never commercially for sale but only supplied to watchmakers in fewer than 3300 movements in total. This was an observatory chronometer-grade calibre made to compete at Neuchâtel and later Geneva (the clue’s in the name). Prior it had never been in a wristwatch. This was, to run with an overused analogy lazily, truly the F1 car of calibres in its day: bred for competition. The calibre is less ornate but if anything even more purposeful than the calibre 28, it deserved the attention it receives here fully. One detail I adore: all the sensitive timing screws were made again in platinum as well. In fact, Kari swapped out the whole balance, hairspring, and escapement for his own. This effort in every detail meant just 50 examples (roughly) were made over 4 years.

You could have you selection of metals and 38 or 40mm, with an array of dials. In fact, the majority of Observatoires have distinct looks which is rather lovely in itself. This caramel-brown has been seen on a few examples. In this era, it was Kari Voutilainen doing just about everything himself and that’s what most collectors are magnetically drawn towards. It is often said that one of these hands took a complete day of work (hand, not handset). So yes, this is a Voutilainen with an ébauche, not his own calibre. But the degree of effort he invested in each watch is what makes these so special today. The Voutilainen we know and love began here, and it’s not difficult to see why waves of success followed. It’s like having your first scribble as a toddler be Nighthawks by Edward Hopper.

This example appears only lightly worn and nothing more. The case has deep hallmarks but apparently was lightly polished in a 2013 service. It’s not terribly noticeable in any way. The dial is lovely and has no signs of damage.