5374P Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

This is the spiritual successor to what might be the most universally adored Patek reference: 3974. That is an unenviable act to follow. The 3974 was made by Philippe Stern with a case by JPH, it’s the best names from the best era. That said, 5374 is surprisingly not off-piste. The dial may say email at 6, but it’s the opposite of digital (that means enamel, if you’re a peasant like me). I was recently asked after our Patek Philippe-slating podcast ep. 40, ‘Are there no modern Pateks you enjoy?’ Far from it, there are many. I just wish this quality extended to the mid and low catalogue. But when Patek goes all out, it is still a thing to behold.

3974 was the first wristwatch to pair a minute repeater and QP. This was its first major evolution. What’s changed? The main thing is that it’s gone from 36 to 42mm. Now, put down your pitchforks for a moment, it re-introduced Breguet numerals. Compared to its contemporary peer, the 5304, it is an intensely more beautiful dial. This is the 5374P, which is interesting, because platinum is a tricky one for repeaters (it’s dense). To counter this, the gongs extend almost twice fully around the case perimeter. The base of the repeater started in the 3979, while the (basically) 5140’s perpetual calendar is stacked on top and out of view to allow a visual experience of the gongs. That said, the sound will be better with the platinum back, which is also graciously included.

This is the sort of calibre that makes Patek great. Not just because it’s complicated, but because of the obvious skill, craft, and love adorning every bridge. The grand feu enamel dial is no joke either, layers of blue powder built on an 18k gold blank. If a single layer fails in firing, it’s time to start again. This initial black platinum was supplanted by a blue dial in white gold and some gem set nonsense. I’m not sure the introductory spec has been bettered. This is not a watch Philippe Stern would have made, but it’s also very, very far away from a Cubitis. Take the wins when they’re present.

This example looks hardly worn. The case is unmarred. It comes with the works from a well regarded Swiss retailer with all the set and the rest, obviously.