44018 Vacheron Constantin 222 Jumbo, Steel

Perceptions of watches change over time and no watch may have rocketed from total obscurity to the spotlight as quickly as the 222 last year. The 222 was, for some time, the very unobvious, alternative choice. I know this because for a decade until 2022, when someone asked me ‘Royal Oak or Nautilus?’, I’d always respond 222/Overseas . . .and then the inquirer would look at me in the way that I look at people who say the new Biver watch is beautiful. This original steel 222 Jumbo was only made in fewer than 500 examples, where there are roughly 4800 ref. 3700 Nautilus examples and some 4288 ref. 5402 Royal Oaks. That’s why it was always obscure, but today everyone cares (thanks, Brad). So just why is this third musketeer so special?

Vacheron Constantin were last of the big three Swiss houses to debut their steel sports offering, typically fashionably late. AP had first mover advantage and Patek sniped up Genta whilst VC sat back, watching and learning. When the time came, they went about things a little differently. Commemorating the manufacture’s 222nd anniversary, Jorg Hysek was tasked to pen an integrated sports offering. The case was super thin, harshly angular, hexagonal in theme, and serrated in detail. No porthole faff was to be found anywhere. Its design impression was VC to the core. I particularly love the VC-cross case stamp just beneath its 5 marker, a divisive detail to say the least. Interestingly, the Jumbo utilized an entirely different calibre to the midsized, a JLC 920-derived ultra-thin calibre 1121. It remains even today one of the thinnest full-rotor movement architectures ever produced. It’s VC’s razor-thin, brutalist 1977 birthday gift to itself. Hexagonal bracelets started here and the strength of the 222 is its design, rarity, and faltering history.

The 222 was late and sold horribly in period. Today, it’s rare and desirable. This can do strange things to a market. The 222 has gone from 75K to 150K, and back down to 125K in a very short span of time. And values will change further. Currently, Les Historiques have only remade a gold version, which shot up the desirability of true vintage. What happens if a steel comes? That’s anyone’s guess. And in some ways, the fact that steel remains the bastion of vintage metals for now is in its favor, you’ll know if you see someone wearing this that they’re a die-hard watch fanatic. But one thing is for sure: the 222 has emerged from the shadow behind the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Now, Square 222, Phidias, or 2215 Royal Chronometer, anyone?

This example is in lovely condition. The case has been restored, so that should be noted straight away, but most great ones have been at this point. The dial appears free of damage with cream tritium, on a watch of this value worth checking its originality in person. It comes from a well-regarded NYC vintage retailer, with its inner box and Certificate of Origin, remarkably.