3705 IWC Ceramic Flieger Chronograph

Of all the pilot watches IWC make, and there are many, the 3705 might be the most special. First, there’s no Top Gun branding, that hadn’t been invented yet in 1993. Second, it was materially innovative. Hublot and AP might enjoy shouting about their new ceramic technology, but IWC were first. This forged Zirconium was the world’s first ceramic watch case. Not just at IWC, across all brands (the Da Vinci was simultaneously developed in white ceramic as early as 1986). Third, it’s just extremely handsome. Yes, it’s a pilot’s watch. But it has the attitude and bearing of an F-117 Nighthawk pilot, specifically.

Ceramic was not just new back then, no one understood it. The 3705 cost 50% more than the standard steel 3706, they did not sell quickly. IWC stopped production at 999 examples, which is all there is out there in the world today. In the original pamphlets, IWC wrote, ‘It is the first Fliegerchronograph ever made of zirconium oxide, the high-tech ceramic that has made Stealth technology possible and been proving itself in space travel for many years now. Its exclusiveness is underscored by the colour, matte black.’ IWC didn’t anticipate just how exclusive it would become. The 3705 has become a cult classic for IWC, for those who find the Mark a little simple and the Big Pilot a little, well, big. It’s helped by a 39mm case, tritium charm, and tiny production. More importantly, the watch feels like a genuine tool, not trying to be commercially successful product first; it’s just naturally pretty masculine-cool, not from gimmicks.

Interestingly, the tinier components like pushers and the fish-crown were too delicate to be forged in powdered ZrO2. These delicate steel touches add a bit of contrast and charm to the original. Even though it wasn’t widely sold, it did have some rather important fans in the 90s. Günter Blümlein, who spearheaded the modern incarnation of Lange after time at IWC, had one which he wore frequently. There’s no cooler celebrity wearer if you really know watches. Values have been all over the place since IWC’s somewhat heavy-handed reissue. The highs were 40-50K US, they’re now settled around 30K generally. For what I’d argue might be the most attractive aviation watch barring FAP Daytonas, that’s not too shabby really.

This example looks just fantastic. Often the hands could be replaced at service with Luminova, not so here. This is all cream tritium and beautifully aged. The discs are in English, which works for me. It even comes with a signed original buckle and instruction booklet. It comes from a well-regarded Japanese retailer.