3508 IWC Ingenieur 500K A/m, Bimetal

The mid-sized Ingenieur is one of the great undersold integrated bracelet designs of the last half century, but that’s starting to turn. In today’s climate, things can only remain enthusiast favorites for so long before others catch on. This is the 3508, a triumph of engineering able to withstand 500K A/m, something not even modern IWC has come close to since. In significance and ambition, it is a bit of a high-water mark. In fact, IWC were so proud of its magnetic resistance that they engraved it on the side of the case. 90s IWC knew no bounds, they’re over-engineered to a level not even 90s Mercedes could match.

Interestingly, the extreme resistance was developed not for the market, but for the German Military’s Bundeswehr. German divers needed totally a-magnetic watches for mine disposal, to not interfere with electric fields whatsoever. This Ingenieur is actually more related to the 3H Ocean 2000 than any Genta peer. This 500K A/m ref. 3508 was the consumer-marketed version of that tech, where just 50 A-Mag calibre Bunds exist from that initial development. No corners we cut in the quest for antimagnetic properties, to the extent that IWC lost money on every 3508 made. Its hairspring has its own alloy, niobium-zirconium, well before Rolex was doing Parachrom. The rotor is solid 21k gold as well. While the latter JLC ébauche Ingenieur has a more precise architecture and chronometer standard, this has everything IWC could possibly throw at it.

The 3508 a 90s IWC passion project, made for purpose and adapted to this case. It was simply ahead of its time. The watch sold in just under 1000 examples, of this bimetal about 200 are out there. Its size holds back many, 35, but with the aggressive lug to lug it wears very similarly to a 14790ST. It’s just half the value and twice as rare. Now, is it as universally known or loved? Not even close. But it is the best of IWC’s best decade. The new Ingenieur doesn’t touch it. The 1832 does, but that’s well over 2x the value here. It’s as substantive, approachable, and impressive as a vintage Genta peer could be. Is it actually Genta? People will argue about the midsized for all of time. Whoever was involved, they did damn good work. It’s taken us all three decades to fully appreciate it.

This example present very well, with a strong case overall. It should be noted these were never bevelled. The bezel is aligned, which is really individual preference here. Its dial shows zero signs of damage with deep cream tritium. More impressively, it has a service history at Wempe. It comes with the original box, warranty card, service booklet, and warranty booklet.