It is a magnificent thing to light up an enthusiast’s face with a watch which, even after decades of learning, they’ve never before encountered. Universally, this watch elicits that. There are rare watches and then there are watches where just a handful examples were made in 1990. This is the latter, case number 2 of (likely) 3, engraved on the underside of its crown guards. You’re looking at a Lemania 2310 ébauche, skeletonized and freehand engraved in a floral motif on every millimeter, including individual gear teeth, top and bottom. It has its own unique and intricate 3-piece 39mm case design. And it’s a Piaget.
Every detail of this creation is considered. Although it looks like enamel, its bezel is inlaid with two large sections of black onyx, polished to gloss with gold indices set. The two markers at 4 and 8 have onyx centers, a reverse of the rest. The result is highly legible, as one can immediately differentiate top from bottom due to the asymmetry. Its lugs are stepped, flared, and faceted, each a small, aureate piece of art. Even its undersized block cylindrical gold pushers are set in scalloped reveals which match the lug design. Case flanks contrast high polish with dual coin edges. Finally, there is an exhibition caseback which allows light to shine fully through the calibre, surrounded by thick hobnail decoration.
But the calibre dominates the experience of this chronograph on wrist. You will still be learning new details after spending two hours louping it. Each of the main wheels has its own style of decoration top and bottom, including individual teeth. Each lever of the chronograph mechanism is bevelled beautifully. What can be taken away has been taken away and that which remains has been transformed into an art work. It is capstoned by black gloss feuille hands, a thin gold chapter ring, and two thin decagonal registers. This was someone’s masterpiece effort and it’s been unknown for decades.
In onyx, only this case number 2 is known to the community. Our research indicates that there are likely to be three. A similar reference exists with a lapis bezel, of which there are thought to be fewer than ten. Original papers show sale from Kutchinsky in Knightsbridge, London. It went to a Middle Eastern client, in onyx a special order request of the brand. In period, this chronograph sold for 76000 CHF.
Piaget of this era are known for their daringly elegant and distinct case designs or hardstone dials. They are often incorrectly accused of being a jewelry brand who makes watches. In truth, Piaget have been contesting some of the very best watchmakers since their founding in 1874 in La Côte-aux-Fées. More than almost anything else from their neo-vintage period, this skeleton demonstrates Piaget’s love for the craft of traditional watchmaking and outright ability.
