A386, El Primero, Steel

Exclusives, live. Zenith's A386 is unarguably the most technically accomplished early automatic chronograph. Its calibre 3019 PHC was a completely integrated 278 component, column wheel, high-beating 36000 vph self-wound chronograph. At a remarkable 6.5mm thinness, that movement, make no mistake, was a more significant accomplishment regardless of whether you believe Zenith, Heuer, or Seiko actually got there first. El Primero means 'the first' in Esperanto. That's contested. But we know concretely, in retrospect, it's definitely in pole position.

Not just for its movement but also design sense, which deserves attention. Whoever came up with idea to make the three subdial registers of the A386 tri-color is a genius. In watch design, the gold standard is being distinctive enough to be recognized from across a room or mid-distance. It is the job of the watchmaker to create a watch notable enough to be worth knowing and job of the designer to make it easily recognizable. Zenith does both in the A386 and they nailed it right out of the gate with an elegant simplicity in light grey, dark grey, and navy registers. Why did no one do this before?

The there's the case, which is as distinct as the A384 which came after, but a bit more classic. Its lugs have a prominent bevel that's easily lost if the case has been touched, not here. In addition, it has what I call a shark-nosed end, which helps it hug a wrist. At 38mm it wears remarkably thin, a supremely relaxed and sophisticated presence. Moreover, this one's on its original Gay Frères ladder bracelet, the first watch to have a ladder bracelet. It was intended to both wear lighter and be more breathable than a traditional steel bracelet, which it does, but the bonus byproduct is a deliciously vintage aesthetic.

Although you see the A386’s influence across many other styles of Zenith chronograph, it is estimated around 2500 were produced in this original tricolor flavor (according to M. Rössler). This Mark 3 variety is distinguished by its case, which has a ‘NATO’ star engraved on its caseback. Not just a pretty face, although it definitely has that, but depth of personality few vintage chronographs can rival.

This example is in exceptional vintage condition. Starting with the case, which is a Mark 3 and in our opinion unpolished. It has very sharp edges and prominent bevels, pictured in macro, and the caseback serial is extremely deep, not rounded over on edges at all. Strong top-side brushing on the case present too. The crown is the original 'large circle'. Its dial is an original 'A under H' variant, with warm yellowed tritium indices. All tritium is also present in the handset, everything matches and falls off perfectly under UV. It is unrestored and though there are light signs of patina such commensurate with age, there is no visible dial damage. Its calibre 3019 PHC is running beautifully and in spec. It comes on its original matching Gay Frères ladder bracelet with ZJ endlinks. A very original, honest, and lovely A386.

This watch is modeled on a relatively large 7.7 inch wrist.