5066A, Aquanaut, ‘Japan Blue’ Dial, Steel

This is as charismatic as the Aquanaut gets, a rarely seen limited edition blue dial 5066A made for Japan only in 1998 often known as 'Japan Blue'. It is widely believed that just 500 examples were made, most of which have stayed with their original owners. It’s not just a blue dial but tritium, on its matching blue ‘tropic’ strap no less. One must study the Aquanaut very closely to know that these few tritium 'Japan Blue' dials known to the market exist, a distinct and very interesting early Aquanaut.

Japan’s tech and electronics economy was rising throughout the late 90s. In years following the quartz crisis, Japan proved to be one of Patek Phillippe’s better markets. Despite 90s uncertainty, demand in Japan stayed strong for the 36.5mm Aquanaut and much of Patek. It is widely believed that this was Patek’s way of saying thank you.

The Aquanaut itself has a fascinating history. Patek Philippe first designed the Aquanaut in 1997 to appeal to a younger audience, embracing sportiness and defying convention as their first watch designed ground-up to be worn on a rubber strap. The Nautilus was steel luxury and the Aquanaut was for living with (yet still refined). The first Aquanaut was introduced in 1997 in ref. 5060, repurposing Genta's aesthetic but through a new lens and on a strap at 36.5mm. The sportier design aimed to capture a younger audience. In reality, they went mostly to established clients of the brand. It is rumored that the model was first commissioned from high level military officers to Stern, supposedly inspiring both the utilitarian design and 'grenade' pattern adorning the dial and strap.

The Aquanaut's 'tropic' rubber strap took one full year of development, comprising twenty materials in its composite and fully resistant to salt water, UV deterioration, and bacteria. One short year later, the Aquanaut line expanded into three references all heavily collected today: the practical 'ladies' 5064 at 34mm in quartz, the 'Jumbo' 5065 at 38mm, and this 5066, an evolution of the original size but now with a display caseback. That back reveals the automatic calibre 330 SC with its 29 jewels, Côtes de Genève, Gyromax balance adjusted in 5 positions, and a solid gold rotor engraved with the Calatrava cross. This earned it a Geneva Seal.

The 5066 and 5065 are considered the archetypal neo-vintage Aquanauts, produced from '98 until '06. The Aquanaut is casual luxury, and it's here to stay. This particular ‘Japan Blue’ 5066A is as desirable as early tritium Aquanaut gets, in casual luxury Japan was ahead of the curve. It is not just rarity or the cerulean tone that makes the ‘Japan Blue’ truly special, but its connection to culture and Japan.

This 5066A Japan Limited Edition presents in excellent overall condition. The case is beautiful, very full with little wear and beautiful factory edges. Its caseback is equally strong, with no scratches on the sapphire or tooling marks around the caseback grips. The dial is very well-preseved, with a deep cream tritium tone in both the dial and the hands. The handset tritium is very, very slightly lighter which is normal for the ref 5066. We believe these to be the original dial and handset as service replacements were always Luminova. Its calibre 330 SC is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It comes with all original documentation, certificate of origin, manuals, service papers to Japan, and cube box. The original blue strap is only barely cut to fit roughly a 7.0" wrist.

This watch is modelled on an average-sized 6.9 inch wrist.