3417, Amagnetic, Steel

The ref. 3417 Amagnetic, was a time-only which blurred the line between utilitarian purpose and elegance. This was in 1958 the sole Patek Philippe model to be made exclusively in steel (including its bracelet sister-reference 3418). From 1958 until 1968, it is widely estimated that fewer than 500 examples were made of the 3417. This 1959 example features an early production ‘Type 1’ dial with a larger petite seconds, no Swiss signature, and indices which run all the way to the dial’s edge. 

The Amagnetic debuted in 1958 but the story starts much earlier. Scientist’s watches were very much in demand alongside the new sports watch category. The 3417 almost certainly originated from a watch produced for US Admiral Richard Byrd in 1955 to accompany him on an Antarctic expedition (where magnetism is much stronger) to set up a a US Research Base, known as Operation Deep Freeze. Patek Philippe gifted him a one-off ref. 778 with an inner soft iron cage to use. Three years later, that technology entered the main catalogue. In their own advertising, Patek Philippe marketed the 3417 as 'The World's Foremost Watch'.

The 3417 featured a gorgeous 35mm case made by Jean Vallon, a La-Chaux-de-Fonds master case maker who specialized in magnetic resistant cases. The construction featured a soft iron inner cage and uniquely shaped lugs with a high downward angle—stepped in near the case junction. Together with a flat, broad bezel and elegant 10.5mm case height, the proportions are extremely refined. Interestingly, 3417 crowns were made of white gold.

The dial was manufactured by Stern Frères, with a playful 'Amagnetic' signature under 12, which has become regarded by collectors as one of the greatest-ever handwritten font designs from Patek Philippe. Not all 3417 dials feature this delight. Compared to other Calatravas, its sole art-deco Arabic 12 is an outlier. Dials productions are divided into 4 main types. This example was manufactured in 1959 according to Extract and features the correct, early Type 1 dial with a larger petite seconds, indices that run closer to the dial's edge, no Swiss signature, and several other small distinctions. The handset and indices were manufactured in solid white gold, which on this example have developed a light and beautiful oxidation patina.

The 3417 was produced with two movements, which is usually how series are divided. The first two years, such as this example featured a calibre 12" 400 AM, where post-1960 all production featured a 27 AM 400. Critical points of the movement, such as the anchor and escape wheel, were made of solid gold to remain unaffected by magnetism. Similarly, its hairspring was made in Nivarox. Calibres were designed to withstand up to 450 oersteds. Despite all this engineering, it is still beautifully finished with broad Côtes de Genève and wide, vintage-feeling anlage. 

The 3417 is the original Patek Philippe steel tool watch. Despite that, it wears with a level of refinement and elegance that far exceeds many outright Calatravas. The purpose, engineering, and innovation here are very real, but so is the elegance. The 3417’s juxtaposition of an art-deco 12, handwritten Amagnetic font, overly elongated indices, and perfect proportions against tool watch intent stand alone in Patek Philippe’s historic catalogue. 

This 3417 presents in good overall condition. The case is extremely strong with moderate surface wear throughout all surfaces, commensurate with age. There are some marks deep enough to be felt with the nail but its edges are extremely strong. The dial bears light to moderate patina, with some dark areas around the edges and mild spots of wear. There is a light mark below the tip of the 8 o'clock marker and just under the left edge of 9. There is some small dust on the inside of the crystal. Its calibre 12" 400 AM shows little to no signs of wear, beautifully preserved and running well in specification on our timing equipment. The example is on a period-current Gay Fréres bracelet, accompanied by an Extract of Archive.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.