IWC

3312, Yacht Club II Jumbo, Steel

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A ref. 3312 Yacht Club II Jumbo, an extremely thin and elegant 38mm Genta-designed integrated steel quartz watch. Relative to the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur, the Yacht Club II has always flown a bit under the radar. Fitting, as its faceted, flat, and wide case design almost reminds of a stealth bomber on wrist. This example features a matte, irregularly-textured anthracite tritium dial and pencil hands. With the no-nonsense constant timekeeping of IWC’s quartz calibre 2250, this is one of the most approachable, refined, and distinct Genta designs today.

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Worth Reading

There aren't many original Genta designs integrated in steel above 36mm. The names you'll know: Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Ingenieur. But one gets left out: the 38mm Yacht Club II Jumbo. The YCII is one of the most cohesive and refined integrated cases ever penned, yet, still today, only is really discussed between expert watch lovers. The YCII underpinned IWC's late '70s strategy, to offer beautiful designs and let its clients choose between an IWC-engineered automatic or quartz version. The YCII was considerably thinner than any Ingenieur or Polo SL, it wears like a tight metal cuff. Arguably, we'd dare to call it the last great Genta sleeper.

This was the second design penned by Genta after the 1832. It was available in 30, 34, and this 38mm, automatic or quartz, with varied dials. The low and wide stance is unlike pretty much anything else, emphasized by the wide bezel which is one piece finished in both a flat radial brushing and high polish outer bevel. With many sheer high polish planes at various slightly altered angles and few transitions, the wrist presence reminds of stealth aircraft like the faceted wafer-thin F-117 Nighthawk. The long lugs can actually take a strap, but the design is made on this thin H-link bracelet with flat rectangular centers. Every design element here reinforces the delicate thinness and almost fractal planes.

Its black dial is textured in a very subtle randomized vertical graining, quite a bit more subtle than most textures. It almost feels like a natural stone surface in this anthracite grey. Even the hands reinforce the case design theme, two pancaked, angled planes and a flat channeled center in tritium. Indices vary between generations, but this 3312 features applied long steel indices with tritium dot outers.

In period, this IWC 2250 quartz calibre retailed at a 40% premium over the mechanical offering. In the late '70s, quartz was the high-tech segment and still commanded premiums, this movement even features perlage. Today, that's been reversed. However, these early quartz pieces are now a much more approachable proposition, offering no-nonsense constant timekeeping and the same integrated, vintage wrist presence. Arguably, there may be no more elegantly designed quartz watch in the world.

Condition

This example is in excellent overall condition. Its dial is textured lightly and very well preserved, tritium in an even cream. The case sports light wear and surface marks commensurate with age evenly on all surfaces. Case transitions are very defined and well preserved. It may have seen a light polish in its past but not significantly so. The back has a decent bit of marking. There is also one scratch on the lower left lug's polished upper surface, which is pictured toward the end. Two of its bracelet links are quite tight, probably just from sitting. Its calibre 2250 is running well and has been serviced just recently, fresh battery and timing coil. The bracelet will fit up to a 7.3" wrist or so.

Specifications

This example is modeled on a 7.7" wrist.

  • Brand: IWC
  • Model: Yacht Club II
  • Reference: 3312
  • Size: 38
  • Year: 1980
  • Case Material: Steel
  • Movement: Quartz Calibre 2250
  • Scope: Watch Only