1680, Submariner, Steel

Sixteen years after the introduction of the first Submariner and two years after the earliest Sea-Dwellers, Rolex unveiled the first Submariner with a date in ref. 1680. In 1976, the red Submariner line was ditched to land at the configuration shown here: white Submariner text. In either red or white, the 1680 is one of the great vintage Rolex aesthetics. But that is particularly the case for this example, sporting a pumpkin-tone tritium dial and a fanciful state of preservation.

This is the chronological swansong of vintage matte dial Rolex Submariner production, succeeding the 5513 and 5512, but predating white gold surrounds. This was the first appearance of the four lines of white text at 6 that have become the Submariner date blueprint today. No one is precisely certain why Rolex decided to start he 1680 with one red line of text in 1969 and no one is precisely certain why in 1976 they reverted to all white. But the aesthetic has proven successful simply by its longevity in Rolex design, the evolution is clear.

However, 1680 remains the only Submariner date ref. with acrylic crystal. The addition of a cyclops to the 5513 and 5512's dome changes the aesthetic considerably, not only more recognizable, but with a completely different tall and squared 'Top Hat' crystal profile which can act as a prism in some light. Regardless of the significant aesthetic difference, the addition of the date was a watershed moment for Rolex. The 1680 superseded popularity of the original and vastly outclassed its sales.

But the star of this example is its dial, with tritium plots that look like they're perpetually lit in the golden hour. Some describe this patina as pumpkin, others honey, but it's clearly cohesive and beautiful. Few dials warm this evenly and deeply, it is one of the most attractive examples we've ever laid eyes on. This is bolstered by a case with a razor sharp definition that still has its original caseback sticker on.

Four digit is one of the most timeless iterations of the Submariner, arguably never bettered. From the charm of acrylic crystal to a tritium dial and a thinner case, the details that made this generation are full of romance. White dial 1680 is often overlooked relative to red, a slightly cleaner aesthetic. But this example is simply made by condition, from the perfect lug underside to its pumpkin dial. And in vintage, that character is truly what matters.

This 1680 presents in exceptional condition. Its case is extremely sharp with deep engravings and full defined lugs, in all likelihood never touched by a polisher. The unrestored dial has taken on a deep pumpkin patina over time, with plots that range from deep honey to burned orange depending on light. The hands match the dial tritium tone completely in aesthetic and under UV light. Its caseback still has its original sticker on. The bezel is Mark 3 with very little to no visible wear. It sports a 5.4M serial dating to 1978. The bracelet is a correct 93150 with 580 end links with a VC clasp code dating to 1978 as well. The watch is sporting a NOS top hat 25-127 acrylic crystal, with the original included in sale. The condition is remarkable enough that many would describe this example as NOS, but it bears just a few extremely light signs of being worn, the level of superficial wear one would expect of a three year old watch. It is a very remarkable 1680 with deep patina and a beautiful case.

This watch is modelled on a relatively large sized 7.7 inch wrist.