16/1860/2, LUC 1860, White Gold

Though Chopard have recently revisited the category-defying ref. 1860 in steel, nothing comes close to the original in white gold. This is the 16/1860/2 from the late 1990s with a scarcely seen salmon dial, Chopard's first entirely-manufacture calibre 1.96 which placed them at the tip of the spear in watchmaking. This is some of the best independent watchmaking of the 1990s, though no one seems to think about it that way. The story of this calibre is a story of daring, commitment to craft, and genius. In prescient the words of co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2003, 'Either you are a manufacturer or you're not; there's nothing in between. We wanted to create a complete movement from scratch. Either you do it, or you don't bother.'

The 16/1860 began from an audacious plan: give a blank check and unlimited time (which wound up taking four years and twenty prototypes) to Michel Parmigiani in order to create the most advanced and beautiful time only calibre in the world. Parmigiani and the blind ambition of youth delivered with the calibre 1.96. This was a dual mainspring micro-rotor with a 70-hour reserve and Breguet overcoil. It was COSC certified and also beared the Geneva Seal, entirely hand finished with beautiful bevels. The guilloché micro-rotor, tying in the dial, is a particularly thoughtful touch. Many still consider this to be the most technically accomplished and beautiful time only calibre ever made.

The dial manufacture Metalem was chosen, for their peerless quality and guilloché ability. It is often noted, but this is the same manufacture Philippe Dufour has also chosen. It sports a very fine radial guilloche, dimpled border, and dagger indices to match a strong dauphine handset. As Chopard are a jewelry manufacture, they used their own white gold alloys for the hands and indices. Further, the date wheel was matched to the dial in a grained salmon. This applies to the case as well, which at 37mm with a modern and full proportion wears perfect on many wrists.

The 16/1860 was made in two distinct runs. The 16/1860/1 featured a hinged caseback which often proved faulty over time. It was replaced with this 16/1860/2 which featured a display or solid caseback, this example includes both. Both are technically referred to as 'first series', which can get a bit confusing. Each was made in the three golds and platinum. For each metal, the 16/1860/1 was said to be limited to 100 examples. For the 16/1860/2, each metal was planned to be limited to 1860 examples. Most scholars believe the actual numbers are a fraction of that, fewer than 300 examples per metal in the 16/1860/2.

The 16/1860 has stood the test of time, both in desirability and placing Chopard amongst the most technically capable manufactures. Few projects emerge these days which are as committed to watchmaking and handcraft. This is a watch which supported young talent, placed a manufacture back on the map, and has been renowned for its daring quality since: an independent spirit channeled through mainstream resource. This example, with its scarcely seen dial in salmon, is as attractive an LUC as has ever been made.

This 16/1860/2 presents in great vintage condition. The case is very full with deep hallmarks and great lug edges. It also sports a light to moderate degree of surface wear, hairlines commensurate with occasional wear. Its dial shows no signs of age or damage. The calibre 1.96 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It comes with its original white gold clasp, spring bars, solid white gold caseback, and service papers.

This watch is modelled on a relatively large 7.5 inch wrist, with our Alligator Strap in Jasper Green (included).