1004, Superocean, Steel

Breitling may have primacy in aviation, but their dive history should not be overlooked. The ref. 1004 Superocean is both Breitling's first-ever dive watch and the one of the rarest watches Breitling has ever made, certainly their least produced diver. Launched in '57, it went about things a little differently with a massively domed crystal, elongated dagger indices, concave 'stadium' bezel, and mesh bracelet. It is lesser known and seen than its contemporary peers: the Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, Deeps Sea, etc., but was right amongst those early forerunners. It is thought that fewer than 20 examples survive today.

The ad Breitling ran at the time declared, 'Breitling had the honor of supplying 25 of the world’s leading airlines and aircraft companies. From now on, Breitling offers you the same vital precision under the sea: the new Super Ocean 20 atmos (600 feet) was specially created by Breitling for deep sea exploration and to cater for the fast growing popularity of underwater sports.' It was meant to appeal to the casual diver, whilst a reference 807 was a slow chronograph aimed at the professional. Both hit 200m resistance and aim to maximize legibility underwater, hence the extremely elongated indices. The 1004, however, is the more elegant of pair as a simple three-hander.

It signature wide and concave bezel was intended to both be more legible and protect its crystal. Because the bezel edge extents beyond the case and because the midcase is surprisingly thin, the 1004 wears extremely flat except the raised bezel edge. At 38mm one might imagine it would have a wrist presence comparable to a Submariner, however the watch reads as larger thanks to the immense dial and bezel surface area. Its dial sports gilt writing and minute markers, radium hands and plots, and a bizarre applied marker at quarters, which has a dot of lume with a dagger indices punching through. Not to miss a bit of drama, the B logo is applied and the Superocean text at 6 is one of the sexiest fonts ever printed on a dial, almost a bit Carrera RS-like with its slant and 'tail' to the S.  The design is quite unlike anything else before or since.

This example presents in strong overall condition. The watch is entirely original from the bezel down to the radium which ticks on a geiger counter. Many of the surviving 1004 examples have either suffered severe radium burn or seen their plots entirely relumed in tritium. This example is what an original dial should look like when not abused. The gilt text and markers are crisp, there is an even and unperturbed gloss layer on the dial, and light signs of radium burn on all surrounding areas. Its case shows strong and defined bevels under loupe. Its caseback engravings are deep and crisp, there are some deep caseback scratches indicative of someone trying to open it without proper tools. And all surfaces sport a moderate level of surface wear commensurate with age. All of this would lead us to believe the case has not been touched. Its calibre B125 has been serviced recently and is running well in spec. Its bezel is equally fantastic, with light dents and no hard bashes. The watch is photographed on a modern dive mesh but comes with its original mesh bracelet. It should be noted that on the original bracelet its original owner attempted to drill a hole to allow it wear smaller. Otherwise, it is in great shape. It comes with both bracelets.

This watch is modeled on a relatively large 7.7 inch wrist.