'Big Triangle' 165.024 Omega Seamaster 300

Finds. The rather unimaginatively nicknamed Big Triangle is something rather unusual in vintage tool divers. It’s a well-known, beautiful watch from a mainstream manufacture that isn’t unjustifiably stratospheric in price. It was produced widely, even after official production stopped (more on that later). But it’s a lyre lug, bakelite bezel, fully lumed 1960s diver with impeccable pedigree. Yet, because precisely because it’s not a Submariner or Fifty Fathoms that was made in two examples, it’s approachable. Despite being every bit the dive watch those other two are, arguably more beautiful in some ways.

The 165.024 succeeded the first 2913 and transitional 14755/165.014. Distinct in many ways, it supplanted the straight lug radium look by binging a twisted lug 42mm case, simplified and fully graduated bezel, tritium over radium, and sword handset. Has the model ever looked better? It certainly gives the 2913 a run for its money. The 165.024 was also used in period by the British Royal Army and Navy, alongside the Submariner as one of few watches up to the challenge.

This example has an extract noting deliver to Mexico and, despite the very light degree of patina, is not a Watchco assembly. An Omega authorized, Australian service center WatchCo found a surplus of original Omega Seamaster 300 parts in the early 2000s. An enterprising service center, they began assembling these surplus parts into full watches and retailing these ‘NOS’ Seamasters. I would like to say for the record I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that, but they should be represented as what they are: not original Omegas by Omega.

It makes this market a little more complex than your average vintage diver. It also makes honest and original examples all the fewer and more beautiful to find. Like period Speedmasters, the Seamaster 300 used both Huguenin Frères (HF) and Centrale Boîtes (CB) for case production. This 1967 is a latter case and on correct 1039 flat-link bracelet with an Extract of Archive noting delivery to Hong Kong no less. What’s not to love. It’s undiluted Big Triangle energy.

This example sports a lovely and very sharp case, likely not ever touched. The dial sports an even very deep yellow tritium, matched in the bezel except a few numerals which have started to push even further dark. There is nothing out of place here. It comes from well-regarded NYC retailer, with Extract.