3230 Breguet Classique Chronograph

There is nothing like vintage Breguet to show how much more modern Breguet could be capable of. The 3230 is a chronograph, yes. But it’s also almost independent in spirit, having been made under the eye of Daniel Roth while still wet behind the ears. This is kind of like watching one genius painter imitate another genius painter, while it’s flattery at heart Roth almost couldn’t help but put his own spin on things. Our great friends of That Watch Pod were quoting John Mayer in a recent episode, and I can’t find the quote to credit it exactly. So take this as thirdhand quoting. But it’s something like, ‘You become the artist you are meant to be when you fail to copy the artists you admire most.’ Look at this case then look at Roth’s own work.

The dial here is straight Breguet pocket watch best hits: guilloché center, contrast second guilloché pattern subdials, brushed numeral track, dimpled outer, individually numbered plaque, all set against blued steel Pomme hands. All present and accounted for. But the case is its own design, obviously vintage inspired with straight lugs but leaning toward a wider bezel that would’ve been seen on anything truly vintage. In reality, though, this is almost a movement wearing a Breguet inspired get-up. The Lemania 2310 (yes, it’s a 2320 I know, semantics) when well finished can grace the most refined of platforms and make it look the part.

The Breguet look is timeless. But it’s the low values and story that compels the 3230 to be one of the great chronographs of now. Daniel Roth, a clear prodigy even at the time, was just finding his feet fresh out of a stint at AP just after school. He convinced the Chaumet brothers to hire him and let him resurrect Breguet with them. The result echoe the blind ambition of youth, no detail too small to consider. They really wanted to do right by AL Breguet, and they did. Roth spent a year studying historic Breguet, then made a Breguet QP Pocket Watch to sell and compensate for his time. The faulty business practice of Chaumet is one thing, Roths ambitions were pure of heart. It is either a very beautiful imitation, or the very start of a separate artist. I leave that to you.

This example has a beautiful case, and it’s very early in production to have a display caseback. The calibre is well-finishing. Not a LAURENT Ferrier, but not a Heuer either. The bevels on the levers for the chronograph are a nice touch, those aren’t always present. It’s an object of deeply quality. It comes with its full set and even an email from Breguet confirming its production, from a well-regarded London retailer.