2396 Cartier CPCP Monopoussoir

The ref. 2396 represents a very special time in Cartier and watchmaking, before the rise of independents yet after some of the masters were born. The recent Prive Monopoussoir is equally beautiful, but the daring, somewhat whimsical Roman 12 seen form the CPCP years has not been revisited since this reference. The dial is guilloché too, not flat. And the story, while Cartier's, is not entirely their own. A young FP Journe, Denis Flageollet (of De Bethune), and Vianney Halter all had a hand in constructing this truly impressive monopusher.

Photography for this Find comes courtesy of a prior sale by A Collected Man. 

Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) was developed by the above trio in 1998 as a similar movement design firm handling unique problems that rivaled Renaud & Papi. Only this was the main project the group really ever worked on. Shortly after, each left at different intervals to begin their own brands. But the resulting calibre is quite unique.

The calibre 045 used a clutch system and swivel pin to engage the chronograph wheel. These extra components remove the jolt that the central chronograph hand will experience with a lateral clutch. This was a lot of engineering, a ground-up chronograph redesign for a Mono. All for the sake of an elegant chronograph engagement. That’s commitment to THA’s uncompromising ethos, a round of applause please. The decoration is polarizing, but the history is not. Around 200 of these calibres could be built yearly, which means there is an approximate total production of just under 2000 pieces (CPCP ran from 1998 to 2008), as some were cased in squared Tank cases as well. The new Mono is genuinely fantastic by all appearances. The CPCP will always be that touch more romantic for pulling Cartier from the ashes at the hands of three very talent watchmakers, the Prive release is more true to vintage aesthetic. There is no wrong answer. If you love Cartier, it’s Tortues all the way down. 

This example features superb hallmarks and a great case. Light wear is present, not much more. It comes with the full kit, from a well-regarded London retailer.