Posts by Erik Gustafson
126529LN Rolex Le Mans Daytona
We don’t usually talk about modern Rolex much, most of it doesn’t fit the criteria here. But some do. There hasn’t been anything like the Le Mans before. There’s this (broadly true) narrative that Rolex is increasing precious metal and pricing at a rate fast enough to become the next Hermes. And it’s true, many…
Read MoreUrban Jürgensen Reference 2
Early Urban Jürgensen has been one of the better kept secrets of independents for a few years. This, I suspect, because the brand has one of the most convoluted and difficult-to-follow histories of any. Here’s what’s relevant to this, their 90s Perpetual Calendar. The storied Danish brand was acquired by a Peter Baumberger, an enterprising…
Read More105.012-65 Omega Speedmaster
Not all Speedmasters are created equal. I don’t just say that because there’s a calibre 321 inside this 105.012, but because of condition (which is really everything in vintage). This example is fantastically sharp on its case, entirely correct, full set even, and sporting a dial that can only be described as pumpkin. It’s also…
Read More6265 Rolex Daytona, 18k Yellow Gold
To understand the Daytona is to not just understand the attitude of Rolex in racing, professional tools, and the Oyster case; today it necessitates understanding how small differences in production sum to huge differences in collectability. The gold Daytona has always been a trophy. The 6263 and 6265 mark the final evolution of the manual…
Read More1832 IWC Ingenieur SL
The original Ingenieur has not been bettered. Released in the same year as the 3700 Nautilus, it is the overlooked third Genta album of the 1970s integrated steel sports splashdown. But unlike the 5402 or 3700, this was at its (iron) core an antimagnetic watch. And so it’s not really the exact same category, it’s…
Read MoreSylvain Pinaud Origine ‘Ste Croix’
Sylvain Pinaud is one of the more recent guard of independent watchmaking, one can be easily forgiven if the name is unfamiliar. His work is of a very high bar, both in being design led but with masterful quality. Pinaud’s story differs from many of the more recent independents in a long career, working first…
Read MoreRuthenium FP Journe Octa Chronographe
The Octa Chronographe is a short-lived, rather thoughtful chronograph made from just 2001 to 2008, when it was replaced by the Centigraphe. Across all 7 years, it is estimated that the total number of examples made is just 313 examples. It straddles the transition from brass to pink gold movements and serves as excellent canvas…
Read More165.014 Omega Seamaster 300
Why is it that transitional references are always criminally overlooked? Often, they’re some of the most interesting . . .and that’s definitely the case here. This is the ref. 165.014. To all intents and purposes, it’s a slightly updated 2913 yet still in the 2913 straight lug case. In many ways, what the Ed White…
Read MoreGreubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S2
The more one studies watchmaking, the more they come to respect Greubel Forsey. Now, I’m choosing my words carefully there, because respect is a very different thing to lust. Many of Greubel’s cases are imposing, not elegant. Their finishing is celebrated at full scale, never hidden. It’s a bit like the feeling you’d get as…
Read More8171 Rolex ‘Padellone’
This was, to all intents and purposes, the first and last time Rolex experimented with complication. If you want a Rolex with a calendar, you’re looking at a 6062 which came after this with an Oyster case, a Killy, or this 8171. The 8171 is known as the ‘Padellone’ (literally ‘frying pan’) for its flat,…
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