Posts by Erik Gustafson
2471 Omega Cosmic Complete Calendar Moonphase
In 1947, this was the height of the Omega catalogue. Man hadn’t stepped on the moon, limited editions hadn’t been invented, and Ploprof was still just what you said when you sneezed. But post-war economic buzz was strong and this was Omega’s halo product. Known today as the Cosmic Complete (or Triple) Calendar Moonphase, this…
Read MoreHoneycomb Dial 6609 Rolex Turn-O-Graph ‘Thunderbird’
The 6609, widely known by its nickname the ‘Thunderbird’, is one of the most important Rolexes to not be famous whatsoever. The Turn-O-Graph was the first Rolex with a rotating bezel, but it’s not even in production anymore. This 6609 is amongst the very earliest rotating bezel Datejusts, before the name Turn-O-Graph was on every…
Read More6087 Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache Chronograph
This ref. 6087 was Vacheron Constantin’s answer to the water resistant 1463 ‘Tasti Tondi’, though released considerably after. Even in the mid-century Vacheron were the slowest moving of the holy trinity. However, where they landed is so expressive that it has stood the test of time as one of the most artful case shapes ever…
Read More126529LN Rolex Le Mans Daytona
We don’t usually talk about modern Rolex much, most of it doesn’t fit the criteria here. But some do. There hasn’t been anything like the Le Mans before. There’s this (broadly true) narrative that Rolex is increasing precious metal and pricing at a rate fast enough to become the next Hermes. And it’s true, many…
Read MoreUrban Jürgensen Reference 2
Early Urban Jürgensen has been one of the better kept secrets of independents for a few years. This, I suspect, because the brand has one of the most convoluted and difficult-to-follow histories of any. Here’s what’s relevant to this, their 90s Perpetual Calendar. The storied Danish brand was acquired by a Peter Baumberger, an enterprising…
Read More105.012-65 Omega Speedmaster
Not all Speedmasters are created equal. I don’t just say that because there’s a calibre 321 inside this 105.012, but because of condition (which is really everything in vintage). This example is fantastically sharp on its case, entirely correct, full set even, and sporting a dial that can only be described as pumpkin. It’s also…
Read More6265 Rolex Daytona, 18k Yellow Gold
To understand the Daytona is to not just understand the attitude of Rolex in racing, professional tools, and the Oyster case; today it necessitates understanding how small differences in production sum to huge differences in collectability. The gold Daytona has always been a trophy. The 6263 and 6265 mark the final evolution of the manual…
Read More1832 IWC Ingenieur SL
The original Ingenieur has not been bettered. Released in the same year as the 3700 Nautilus, it is the overlooked third Genta album of the 1970s integrated steel sports splashdown. But unlike the 5402 or 3700, this was at its (iron) core an antimagnetic watch. And so it’s not really the exact same category, it’s…
Read MoreSylvain Pinaud Origine ‘Ste Croix’
Sylvain Pinaud is one of the more recent guard of independent watchmaking, one can be easily forgiven if the name is unfamiliar. His work is of a very high bar, both in being design led but with masterful quality. Pinaud’s story differs from many of the more recent independents in a long career, working first…
Read MoreRuthenium FP Journe Octa Chronographe
The Octa Chronographe is a short-lived, rather thoughtful chronograph made from just 2001 to 2008, when it was replaced by the Centigraphe. Across all 7 years, it is estimated that the total number of examples made is just 313 examples. It straddles the transition from brass to pink gold movements and serves as excellent canvas…
Read More