Posts by Erik Gustafson
Gilt Dial, PCG 1675 Rolex GMT-Master
Gilt, chapter ring, and PCG. These are the adjectives that nerds like us care about, and they mean everything. This is about as beautiful a GMT-Master as exists without going all the way to 6542. Some might even argue it tops it, but they’re wrong. What are we looking at here? This is one of…
Read More5374P Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar
This is the spiritual successor to what might be the most universally adored Patek reference: 3974. That is an unenviable act to follow. The 3974 was made by Philippe Stern with a case by JPH, it’s the best names from the best era. That said, 5374 is surprisingly not off-piste. The dial may say email…
Read MoreAlbino Dial 5621H Rodania Geometer
Chances are, upon viewing this Rodania, you’re in one of three mindsets. You’re either thinking, ‘Huh, so there’s a vintage Speedmaster twin?’ or ‘Isn’t that Massena’s latest clone?’ Or, if you’re a true die-hard Hairspring reader, you’ll probably be aware this is no 70s Speed lookalike or reissue. If you don’t know, this isn’t a…
Read MoreLinen Dial 1601/9 Rolex Datejust, White Gold
This is a rather exceptional 1601 Datejust, but don’t anyone tell it. It really thinks it’s an 1803 Day-Date. But it’s not just the bracelet, which is likely original to the watch. It’s the metal: this is white gold. Pair that rather unusual precious metal for a Datejust with this spectacular linen dial, and the…
Read MoreFerdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.2
If Ferdinand Berthoud doesn’t ring a bell, here’s what you need to know in an instant download. Think high independent watchmaking underwritten by Chopard, well above LUC. Think marine chronometry roots, re-interpreted for the wristwatch, as the name takes from one of the most accomplished and inventive, insatiable watchmakers of the 18th century. And think…
Read More3700/11J Patek Philippe Nautilus
Despite the hype cycles, Tiffany nonsense, and general feeling that the 5711 is a part of the finance uniform, the Nautilus is a very significant and enduring design. If contrast is nature’s way of pointing toward beauty, the Cubitus has shown us how successful Genta’s original ideations were. In any event, the Nautilus remains one…
Read MoreFP Journe Chronomètre Bleu
In the same way that the Oysterquartz is Rolex on the back foot under a forcing function to become inventive, the Chronomètre Bleu represents FP Journe’s best ability under pressure. This context still is not talked about enough. It was conceived in the midst of the 2008 financial meltdown. Precious metal values were skyrocketing. Demand…
Read MoreGreen Khanjar Dial 6263 Rolex Daytona
While living in London through his early 20s, Sultan Qaboos made friends with a man named Tim Landon. And we should all be glad he did. Tim went on to become fabulously wealthy in age, and helped his friend Qaboos to develop Oman. He also introduced him to a friend, John Asprey. Asprey was instrumental…
Read More812 AD IWC Aquatimer
While the 812 Aquatimer is ultimately a dive watch, IWC’s first, it is more importantly the most elegant and refined dial design to ever be cased with two crowns and a Piquerez Super Compressor case. In 1967, IWC decided to take on the Submariner with this. In typically teutonic fashion, the design was pure Bauhaus: form…
Read More740.056 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
It was a question, less than a decade ago, if the highest ability of A. Lange & Söhne could ever seriously challenge the apex complicated models of the Swiss. The comparison is useless, the two manufactures approach watchmaking with such distinct philosophies. But, if there were any remaining doubt, surely this Datograph Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon put…
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