Posts by Erik Gustafson
FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu
In the same way that the Oysterquartz is Rolex on the back foot under a forcing function to become inventive, the Chronomètre Bleu represents FP Journe’s best ability under pressure. This context still is not talked about enough. It was conceived in the midst of the 2008 financial meltdown. Precious metal values were skyrocketing. Demand…
Read MoreGreen Khanjar Dial 6263 Rolex Daytona
While living in London through his early 20s, Sultan Qaboos made friends with a man named Tim Landon. And we should all be glad he did. Tim went on to become fabulously wealthy in age, and helped his friend Qaboos to develop Oman. He also introduced him to a friend, John Asprey. Asprey was instrumental…
Read More812 AD IWC Aquatimer
While the 812 Aquatimer is ultimately a dive watch, IWC’s first, it is more importantly the most elegant and refined dial design to ever be cased with two crowns and a Piquerez Super Compressor case. In 1967, IWC decided to take on the Submariner with this. In typically teutonic fashion, the design was pure Bauhaus: form…
Read More740.056 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
It was a question, less than a decade ago, if the highest ability of A. Lange & Söhne could ever seriously challenge the apex complicated models of the Swiss. The comparison is useless, the two manufactures approach watchmaking with such distinct philosophies. But, if there were any remaining doubt, surely this Datograph Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon put…
Read MoreBlack Galvanic Dial 6238 Rolex ‘Pre-Daytona’ Chronograph
This is a Pre-Daytona, but it’s way more interesting than it appears at first glance. This is the Pre-Daytona equivalent of a perfect Paul Newman: finding any 6238 with a black dial. For standard dials, the 6238 might hold the Rolex record for having the largest discrepancy between dial colors. The vast, vast majority of…
Read MoreTransitional Matte Dial 16750 Rolex GMT-Master
Welcome one, welcome all to the start of the quickset date. I know the 1675 is as incredible a recipe of vintage charm, practical complication, and bright color as exists in vintage Rolex. But, if we’re all honest, it’s really annoying to set the date on. The early 16750 marked the first new GMT-Master reference…
Read MoreWalser Wald Dial 591 Patek Philippe Chronograph, Pink Gold
It doesn’t appear this way, but this ref. 591 predates WWII. By one year. While the rest of the world was on fire, Switzerland was busy making this. Nonetheless, it’s entirely timeless and rather special in more than one way. First, it’s pink on pink, the ultimate. Second, its pulsations scale dial. Third, it’s signed…
Read More2526 Patek Philippe Calatrava, White Gold
The first time I handled a 2526, its owner said to me simultaneously, ‘it’s just a lovely, lovely watch and nothing superfluous.’ He was right. It is a gorgeous grand feu enamel dial with three hands and one of the most advanced, refined automatic calibres of the last century. Enamel dials, grand feu or cloisonné, are…
Read More2447 NST Heuer Carrera Second Execution
This 2447 NST is every millimeter the chronograph that a 6239 Daytona is, a motorsport thoroughbred which is critically too little esteemed. The NST is about as collected as the Carrera gets, a truly rare bird in this condition. It’s in the article on thee Heuer website, On the Dash, where Jeff Stein placed it…
Read More‘Big Red’ 6263 Rolex Daytona
If you ask anyone to close their eyes and picture a manual Daytona, this is probably what comes to mind. Despite PNs, early pump pushers, and even the JPS, this is the variant that defines an entire era of Daytona production. The Oyster pusher, white dial, acrylic bezel, Big Red dial look is quintessential manual…
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