Posts by Erik Gustafson
‘Frog Foot’ Dial 1016 Rolex Explorer
This is a 1016, which as we all know is the answer to every possible watch question. However, it’s a very peculiar sort. It’s the sort of 1016 for a collector who has already owned a 1016, who then looks down one day and thinks, ‘Yes, this is lovely, but I wish the Rolex coronet…
Read MoreSalmon Dial 49005 Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Platinum
In 1992, Vacheron Constantin launched what they called the 7 marvels: 7 technically or artistically exceptional new efforts. One of them was this ref. 49005, Vacheron’s first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and answer to the 3970. Except where only two known 3970s were made with salmon dials (one formerly owned by Eric Clapton) , there are…
Read MoreDoré Dial Patek Philippe 3940
The 3940 has gone through a bit of a transition in the last 5 years, from simply being the discontinued QP to being recognized as, arguably but with significant consensus, the sole reference which most defines the modern era and reinvigorated the marque. However, no one seems quite able to decide just what the most…
Read More5402BA Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
In the below image, I would happily wear the watch on the left every day for the rest of my life. The watch on the right, not so much. To the untrained eye, they are the same watch. To us, they are as different as Macallan is to Budweiser, despite both being brown drinks. The…
Read MoreMeteorite Dial Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller
Meteorites are perpetually traveling, searching around through spacetime before eventually striking a larger body like Earth. Now, there are surprisingly few elegant-refined leaning GMT offerings. There are endless GMT/travel watches which scream, ‘I’m a professional doing serious things, manly tool watch things.’ But really only a handful that offer old-style Pan-Am easy smile and sophistication…
Read More26586IP Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar RD2
This is not a normal Royal Oak QP. It’s the RD2, very possibly the last watchmaking-first complicated Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet which placed emphasis on their technical ability rather than their marketing ability. It looks like a Royal Oak that’s picked up intermittent fasting as a hobby, still 41mm in footprint but an unbelievable…
Read More740.036 A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
It was a question, less than a decade ago, if the very top end of A. Lange & Söhne could ever seriously challenge the apex complicated models of Patek Philippe. The comparison is useless, the two manufactures approach watchmaking with such distinct philosophies. But, if there were any remaining doubt, surely this ref. 740.036 puts…
Read MoreJPS Paul Newman 6239 Rolex Daytona
John Player Special doesn’t represent an old cigarette manufacture or even Lotus F1 car to watch collectors. JPS is the apex, or at very least an apex, of Daytona collecting. The JPS is nothing more than a black Paul Newman dial with gold subs and chapter ring, a color mix very like the Lotus F1…
Read MoreDB8 De Bethune Monopusher Chronograph, Pink Gold
In 1989, when independent watchmaker was more a slur rather than ambitious height, there was a company called THA. THA (short for Applied Watchmaking Techniques in French) was founded by a young FP Journe, Vianney Halter, and Denis Flageollet of De Bethune, eventually including Nicolas Court of Janvier SA. The trio were an ambitious set,…
Read More3947 Breguet Classique Rattrapante
Rattrapantes aren’t easy, that should be self-evident. But only two manufactures have attempted to coax a Lemania 2310 ébauche, or 2320 (rather as it’s the two-counter version) here, to split seconds: Patek Philippe in the 5004 and Breguet. Everyone knows the 5004 and its Lemania-based beauty, a monumental achievement. Yet Breguet, who achieved the same…
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