Posts by Erik Gustafson
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Rotomatic
If, like many, you’ve always gazed longingly at the Fifty Fathoms only to discover they’re impossibly valuable, it might be worth a second look. Values have softened a bit. And this, the Rotomatic, is the most approachable vintage Fifty Fathoms made. The Rotomatic was the Fifty Fathoms made for the market, not military, not double…
Read MoreOrange Racing Dial 145.022 Omega Speedmaster
Exotic dials aren’t just for Rolex. Meet the Omega equivalent of Paul Newman, just no one ever frames it in that light. This is the 145.022 ‘Orange Racing’, a 1969/1970 Speedmaster variant with a grey Singer dial that is about as colorful as a Coldplay concert on acid. No one knows quite why Omega decided…
Read MorePaul Newman Dial 6241 Rolex Daytona
The 6241 is a fascinating point in the long, steady march of Daytona evolution. Screw down, millerighe pushers had just been introduced. But not all Rolex clients loved the idea. One year after the introduction of the first true Oyster case 6240, which was intended to be the direction of all future Daytona evolution, Rolex…
Read More565 Patek Philippe Calatrava, 14k Yellow Gold
The 565 one of the earliest examples of a Patek Philippe that flirted with sporting ambition, a two-body Taubert & Fils (formerly F. Borgel) 35mm case with a screw back that was way, and I mean way, ahead of its time. It is the vintage Patek Philippe that got a little Rolex in attitude. More…
Read MoreGilt Dial 1016 Rolex Explorer
The 1016 has this quality very few watches can pull off. First, it’s never out of place. But more importantly, it is equally at home in a dive bar in rural New Mexico or at the Atlas Bar in Singapore. To put it another way, it’s classless, capable, and collected. If you just require one…
Read More3705 IWC Ceramic Flieger Chronograph
Of all the pilot watches IWC make, and there are many, the 3705 might be the most special. First, there’s no Top Gun branding, that hadn’t been invented yet in 1993. Second, it was materially innovative. Hublot and AP might enjoy shouting about their new ceramic technology, but IWC were first. This forged Zirconium was…
Read More2215 Vacheron Constantin Royal Chronometer
This is where the 222 and even Overseas began. This, not the 222, was the first Vacheron Constantin integrated bracelet steel sports watch. It’s called the Royal Chronometer, but better known by ref. 2215. Introduced in 1975, it was replaced by the 222 just (this gets a bit confusing now) 2 years later in 1977.…
Read More20368/1 Universal Genève Polerouter
Damn nearly everyone who’s into vintage watches at a certain level develops a soft spot for the Polerouter. It is the least discussed work of Genta, aesthetically all kinds of restrained, art deco perfect. It was technically competent, the world’s first micro-rotor wristwatch (Büren, I don’t want to hear it). But more than either objective…
Read MoreEastern Arabic Dial 1806 Rolex Day-Date
There are Day-Dates and then there are Day-Dates that look like they smoke on airplanes. This is an 1806, which is precisely 3 better than the 1803 you’re used to. That 6 denotes a Florentine (sometimes called Morellis) bezel and case finish, which is a hand-hammered texturize finish. Florentine cases are equal parts tremblage and…
Read MorePeach Dial 14800BA Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
If I were to ask a reader at random, ‘What is a Royal Oak?’ Most would answer something like this, ‘A luxury, steel sports watch where the case is integrated to the bracelet with an octagonal bezel and monocoque case.’ This 14800BA is, well gold. And you’ll note, it’s on a strap. So what gives?…
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