Posts by Erik Gustafson
Mark 3 Dial 1016 Rolex Explorer
The 1016 is where function meets restraint. There are more robust Rolexes. There are more luxurious Rolexes. But I’m not aware of any better designed Rolex dials. The 3-6-9 is divine intervention, so good that even the Sub had to start somewhere. We’re all very aware, also, that this is not the first Explorer; the…
Read More‘Oval O’ Dial 2998-1 Omega Speedmaster
The 2998-1 is a one of the last great values in watches. It is, arguably, every bit or more the chronograph a 6234 is. The straight lug case is also a beautiful, completely separate and thing to what came after. Perhaps most of all desirable of all, though, for the very earliest references, we see…
Read More5740G Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar
Almost as soon as the Royal Oak was born, it became complicated. For the Nautilus, and indeed Overseas, this couldn’t be further from the case. It took until 1998 for the Nautilus to sport its first complication, a humble power reserve under 12 alone in the ref. 3710. That’s all. We didn’t see more complication…
Read MoreSalmon Dial 14790ST Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Around the late 80s, AP got wildly experimental with the mid-sized Royal Oak. Many speculate that the mid-sized case was utilized the testing ground to gauge demand for what might make sense to incorporate into the Jumbo RO, AP’s flagship. Day-Dates, Dual Times, and Annual Calendars flourished. Further, the some rather unusual colors made a…
Read MoreGilt Dial, PCG 1675 Rolex GMT-Master
Gilt, chapter ring, and PCG. These are the adjectives that nerds like us care about, and they mean everything. This is about as beautiful a GMT-Master as exists without going all the way to 6542. Some might even argue it tops it, but they’re wrong. What are we looking at here? This is one of…
Read More5374P Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar
This is the spiritual successor to what might be the most universally adored Patek reference: 3974. That is an unenviable act to follow. The 3974 was made by Philippe Stern with a case by JPH, it’s the best names from the best era. That said, 5374 is surprisingly not off-piste. The dial may say email…
Read MoreAlbino Dial 5621H Rodania Geometer
Chances are, upon viewing this Rodania, you’re in one of three mindsets. You’re either thinking, ‘Huh, so there’s a vintage Speedmaster twin?’ or ‘Isn’t that Massena’s latest clone?’ Or, if you’re a true die-hard Hairspring reader, you’ll probably be aware this is no 70s Speed lookalike or reissue. If you don’t know, this isn’t a…
Read MoreLinen Dial 1601/9 Rolex Datejust, White Gold
This is a rather exceptional 1601 Datejust, but don’t anyone tell it. It really thinks it’s an 1803 Day-Date. But it’s not just the bracelet, which is likely original to the watch. It’s the metal: this is white gold. Pair that rather unusual precious metal for a Datejust with this spectacular linen dial, and the…
Read MoreFerdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.2
If Ferdinand Berthoud doesn’t ring a bell, here’s what you need to know in an instant download. Think high independent watchmaking underwritten by Chopard, well above LUC. Think marine chronometry roots, re-interpreted for the wristwatch, as the name takes from one of the most accomplished and inventive, insatiable watchmakers of the 18th century. And think…
Read More3700/11J Patek Philippe Nautilus
Despite the hype cycles, Tiffany nonsense, and general feeling that the 5711 is a part of the finance uniform, the Nautilus is a very significant and enduring design. If contrast is nature’s way of pointing toward beauty, the Cubitus has shown us how successful Genta’s original ideations were. In any event, the Nautilus remains one…
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